3D printers Advisors

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josejuako
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3D printers Advisors

Post by josejuako » Sat Aug 10, 2013 6:03 pm

Julia , Roller , Drew , Marto , Lawrence , Wilsonj and + .

I bought almost all manufacturers of ABS wanna know you who have spent some time working with ABS, which is the material that best suits UP ?.

It is important to note the technical specifications please.

To Roller: What you thinking about the material manufactured by fabber-parts ?.

In advance thank you for answering this concern .


Jose

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wilsonj
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Re: 3D printers Advisors

Post by wilsonj » Sat Aug 10, 2013 8:08 pm

Josejuako, Thanks for including me, but given I sell ABS my opinion could be seen as commercial. So playing it safe, with normal temperatures the genuine UP white works best for me.
Regards
Jamie
3DPrinterGear.com.au

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JuliaDee
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Re: 3D printers Advisors

Post by JuliaDee » Sun Aug 11, 2013 2:11 am

Hi José,

I am generally not too fussy. My favorite go-to filament for everyday around-the shop parts is Octave yellow ABS. It prints cleanly and very smoothly (even just a bit "greasy", which I like), and the color is nice and industrial-looking :) Similar good results with Octave Orange and 3D Printing Systems' "Electric Lime". Octave pink, light green, red, light yellow, and blue glow-in-the-dark are also good (the glow in the dark doesn't glow much, but it's a nice color anyway). Octave purple seems to not be quite as good as the others, but of course it all depends on the requirements of the print.

If I need black I always go with Delta Micro OEM, I haven't found any other black that prints as well. Octave's is too shiny and doesn't print well at all in my experience, at least in projects that require accuracy.

I've also gotten some really superb results with a spool of "natural" ABS, I think I got it from Makerbot. Maybe the lack of any coloring agents makes it print very cleanly. I printed this demon skull

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:81605

with it for my daughter and it was absolutely flawless.

I've used Taulman 618 and 645 nylon when I needed strength and/or flexibility. Great stuff if you need those qualities, but a bit stringy and not so pretty.

I've tried 3d Printing System's "Rubber Like #1" and had mixed success. When it feeds it's really great for rubber parts. I wish it was easier to use.

I've never found a gold or silver filament that really looks metallic. Whoever comes up with one will make a fortune.

For clear, I've tried two different ones from 3D Printing Systems: "Crystal Clear" and "Crystal Line". If I remember correctly, I didn't like "Crystal Line", but "Crystal Clear" is pretty good for LED lenses and so forth. I'm really looking forward to Taulman's T-Glase for clear stuff.

I've never had much success with PLA at all and it doesn't seem worth the bother.I tried PC once and gave up, I think it needs higher temps.

I've recently started using 3D printing System's "Industrial Gray". It doesn't like high temperature, but with the lowering switch it seems OK and lives up to its name, color-wise. I'd previously used a gray from Ultimaker that looked reasonably like metal, but it didn't come on a spool and I spent hours untangling the damned stuff. Never again. Not too crazy about 3D's "Starburst" with embedded sparkles - disappointing.

I have OEM white that I use when I want a very pure, bright white color rather than the off-white of the natural ABS. I also have OEM yellow but haven't used it too much. It seems similar to the other OEM filaments.

I've got Lay-Woo, Lay-Brick, and Lay-Bend sitting on the shelf waiting for me to have some time, looking forward to trying those soon :)

julia

roller
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Re: 3D printers Advisors

Post by roller » Sun Aug 11, 2013 2:56 am

I have found that given the appropriate temperature every decent ABS works well. This means you need a temperature modification. When I think I have my temp settings right then I print Emmets Gear bearing as a first test print with all my new filament (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53451. This shows me that I am getting a good finish (outer curve really shows up the layers) as well as a good print accuracy and support separation otherwise the gears dont work.

I currently have one that cost a total of $6 and can increment down in 10C steps all the way to 180C (other may say there is no point going all the way down that low as I can switch to PLA mode but this also changes the heated bed behavior and there are times I want to test with a full temperature bed). I can also step the temp up and down while printing (as there are no open circuit periods like with the Ocatve unit which can stop the print). This lets you find the sweet spot for a particular material.

PLA, as Julia points out, is hard to print due to the low softening temperature of PLA. I find I can print anything that will take under 2 hours from a cold start in winter which is making me consider cooling mods for the extruder body (we don't heat our houses in winter because it doesn't get too cold so room temp is about 18-19C). Maybe a little peltier for the stepper motor on the extruder or maybe I will make a chilled chamber (using a budget car fridge chiller). The PLA results have proven to be brilliant with even cheap PLA in this weather. I think wilsonj's new colorfabb filament looks like it has a high softening point so this might the ideal PLA for Up printers we've been looking for. I will be running off some prints of it later when I have a warm printer to really test it out. So far it looks good at least.

Your question about fabber-parts I presume is about the supplier fabber-parts.de? I have not used their filament but I have heard it is ok - not especially good and not too bad. There was a big complaint session about ordering through them recently - the main information of that conversation was, "only order what they have in stock". They are quick when it's in stock but they do not communicate well for items that are out of stock and people were very unhappy.

Julia, Laybrick is interesting. I am getting very mixed results (that I am actually happy with - this very organic and unpredictable quality makes it very architectural) but be warned it breaks really really easily. I have resorted to feeding from above on a bearing cored spool to stop it snapping. Once printed the laybrick is still very fragile not unlike dried but unfired clay or a tough corn chip.

roller
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Re: 3D printers Advisors

Post by roller » Sun Aug 11, 2013 4:31 am

In addition to what I just said - I have found many of the cheaper (non premium) ABS in darker colours does show some stress whitening when peeling away support that doesn't often show in the more premium ABS. This is worse for darker colours like black.

amd-tec
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Re: 3D printers Advisors

Post by amd-tec » Sun Aug 11, 2013 7:14 am

josejuako wrote:Julia , Roller , Drew , Marto , Lawrence , Wilsonj and + .

I bought almost all manufacturers of ABS wanna know you who have spent some time working with ABS, which is the material that best suits UP ?.

It is important to note the technical specifications please.


To Roller: What you thinking about the material manufactured by fabber-parts ?.

In advance thank you for answering this concern .


Jose
Jose, here's one place to order filaments for UP!.

http://www.formfutura.com

I have printed black filament with good results. Ordered grey also, will report how it went with it. The latest grey filament I ordered from fabber-parts.de was totally crap. The earlier orders worked fine. I have made reclamation of it but never got any answer.

Thanks,
AMD-TEC
"3D design with intelligent printing"
http://www.amd-tec.com

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DrewPetitclerc
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Re: 3D printers Advisors

Post by DrewPetitclerc » Sun Aug 11, 2013 4:15 pm

Hi Jose,

I too have bought or been given many spools of plastic, I've started a spreadsheet for myself to keep track of the best temp to shoot them at.
I find it easier to chase only one variable (extrusion temp) when dealing with the different plastics so I purchased and love the mod from:
http://www2.artaylor.co.uk/pp3dp.html
Here is a current copy of my spreadsheet, the column "Best Temp" is the displayed temp of the mod (not a real number but good enough for my usage, the "+ air" means it needs cooling air injected at the feeder gear due to "strip-out" of low temp plastics, I also use the spreadsheet to determine the per-gram material cost.
Material spreadsheet image.jpg
Material spreadsheet image.jpg (142.13 KiB) Viewed 24011 times
Due to the temp mod I've been able to use any material.
I recently changed to using only a glass plate covered with a light coating of non-toxic, water-washable glue-stick (I use the purple ones, easy to see applied), works great to hold down ABS, PLA and Nylon, next on my list to try is Polycarbonate and Lay-wood but from my recent tests I have no fears it will work just as well, I would caution though that your build plate must be perfectly trammed (level) and your first layer must have a nice even squish into the glass.
Caution, don't leave parts overnight as it will become very difficult to remove and I recommend cleaning and reapplying after each build, quick and easy rinse off in sink, I keep 2 glass plates so it easy to swap and keep building.
I've attached the spreadsheet to this post, it grows and fills out day by day.
Regards
Drew
Attachments
Spool supply inventory cut down.zip
(15.78 KiB) Downloaded 580 times
Drew Petitclerc
Petitclerc Designs
Owner/Senior Principal Designer, prototype, tooling and test equipment design and 3D printing
http://flash-graphics.deviantart.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/DrewPetitclerc

roller
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Re: 3D printers Advisors

Post by roller » Mon Aug 12, 2013 3:28 am

Thanks Drew - that's awesome info. From the limited overlap we have I was thinking I print about 10C lower than you but I presume the default temp of the Up is 260C ... if it were indeed 270C (which it probably is - seems to still be a slight point of contention) then our findings match which is nice and reassuring :)

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DrewPetitclerc
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Re: 3D printers Advisors

Post by DrewPetitclerc » Mon Aug 12, 2013 5:32 am

No problem, I know the temp I see on the mod board is not correct but I use it only as a set point and I can hit it again and again as I change materials.

One day need to get someone to rig up a real temp monitor that I can watch and get more accurate readings from, but not a priority right now.

Speaking of materials, I finished 2 prints today using the Polycarbonate from Protoparadigm, discontinued apparently.
https://www.protoparadigm.com/
300c on the mod board and glass coated with glue stick (Scholastic, non-toxic, water soluble, goes on purple dries clear) and there was no lift or warp and the support was about as easy as PLA which for me is only a little harder than ABS (that's easy) and the prints looked great and are tough, crystal clear (faceted).

Really liking this new method, next Laywood and got to get some of that clay/brick filament.

Regards
Drew
Drew Petitclerc
Petitclerc Designs
Owner/Senior Principal Designer, prototype, tooling and test equipment design and 3D printing
http://flash-graphics.deviantart.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/DrewPetitclerc

ftdesigns
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Re: 3D printers Advisors

Post by ftdesigns » Fri Aug 16, 2013 3:55 pm

josejuako wrote:wanna know you who have spent some time working with ABS, which is the material that best suits UP ?.



Jose
I mainly buy Octave plastic and have tried all of their non-fluorescent ABS colors. They all work very well with the Up! modded with temperature switch that drops the extrude temp about 20*C.
Attachments
colors_abs.jpg
colors_abs.jpg (106.09 KiB) Viewed 23797 times

roller
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Re: 3D printers Advisors

Post by roller » Fri Aug 16, 2013 11:55 pm

Octave is not a very useful source for those of us who are outside the US though. Shipping on a single roll is ~$150!

sfinktah
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Re: 3D printers Advisors

Post by sfinktah » Sat Aug 17, 2013 11:07 am

I have my plastic shipped from Amazon to Australia, via www.bongous.com (freight forwarders).

I got all these shipped for
Shipping Cost: $218.99

Yeah, $218 in shipping is a lot. But over 7 rolls... well $31 per roll... but still :p

(i) AFINIA 3D String Yellow 1 2.65 (i)
(i) AFINIA 3D String Silver 1 2.65 (i)
(i) AFINIA 3D String Orange1 2.65 (i)
(i) AFINIA 3D String Blue 1 2.65 (i)
(i) AFINIA 3D String White 1 2.65 (i)
(i) AFINIA 3D String Lt Blue 1 2.65 (i)
(i) AFINIA 3D String Green 1 2.65 (i)

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wilsonj
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Re: 3D printers Advisors

Post by wilsonj » Sat Aug 17, 2013 10:22 pm

Luckily it is re badged Reprapper filament sold by many around the world.
Regards
Jamie
3DPrinterGear.com.au

roller
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Re: 3D printers Advisors

Post by roller » Sun Aug 18, 2013 4:14 am

Ah ... doesn't really bother me any more as I just dump all my filament needs on you :P

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wilsonj
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Re: 3D printers Advisors

Post by wilsonj » Sun Aug 18, 2013 10:43 am

Haha. Resistance is useless..... :D
Regards
Jamie
3DPrinterGear.com.au

dreameez
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Re: 3D printers Advisors

Post by dreameez » Wed Aug 21, 2013 10:21 am

We have Image Printer pro installed and have it setup with one printer. Is it possible to setup multiple printers to multiple folder with program?

chippwalters
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Re: 3D printers Advisors

Post by chippwalters » Fri Sep 06, 2013 6:01 am

Wow. Great thread...tagging along for any new comments...

roller
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Re: 3D printers Advisors

Post by roller » Fri Sep 06, 2013 9:00 am

wilsonj wrote:Haha. Resistance is useless..... :D
Resistance is brilliant ... for lowering the temp to get great print results with all these fancy filaments. :P

doraemon
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Re: 3D printers Advisors

Post by doraemon » Fri Sep 06, 2013 2:07 pm

dreameez wrote:We have Image Printer pro installed and have it setup with one printer. Is it possible to setup multiple printers to multiple folder with program?
Not sure if this is a serious question, as it doesn't make sense why you'd use 2D PDF conversion software with a 3D printer. The PDF conversion software I've used in the past is installed as a printer of its own, not an add-on to existing printers.

roller
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Re: 3D printers Advisors

Post by roller » Fri Sep 06, 2013 3:29 pm

It's spam. Haven't you noticed the moderators don;t know the difference between a 3D printer and a paper printer :)

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