Push Wheel Temperature Mod

Post improvements made for UP, and share ideas.
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woofy
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Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2012 8:09 pm

Push Wheel Temperature Mod

Post by woofy » Wed Nov 27, 2013 6:16 pm

Hi,

I finally got around to building myself a temperature mod. This one mounts on the UP itself, not the extruder head as I still have the old flappy bracket and any pressure there messes up the Z height.
It uses a Cherry decimal push wheel switch, pn PAA3000 available here:
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/produc ... KU=1180017

I used 1.8 ohm resistors which give near enough 5 degrees per step. The 1st step is actually 2*1.8 ohm in series to give an initial 10 degree step. Assuming the standard temperature is 260 that gives me:
Position 0 260
Position 1 250
Position 2 245
Position 3 240
Position 4 235
Position 5 230
Position 6 225
Position 7 220
Position 8 215
Position 9 210

Image

The resistors are small 0805 size surface mount devices that are hand soldered to the pcb pads on the switch. Here is the final resistance check before assembly.
Image

The PT100 sensor wires are intercepted on the ribbon cable. They are the 5th and 6th wires in from the rear. I used a scalpel to slice down either side of the 5th black wire and eased it up before cutting it. Here you see it ready for soldering.
Image

And after connecting and tidying up with some heat shrink sleeving.
Image

Now I can finally print with cheaper filament - Yay!
Image

If anyone wants to duplicate, here are the two STL files for the case:
http://www.woofys-place.co.uk/files/TempMod2.stl
http://www.woofys-place.co.uk/files/TempMod3.stl

Now I just need a pretty label for the front.. . .
UP plus, Ultimaker2 & Raise N2+ Printers.

roller
Posts: 1622
Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 9:09 pm
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Re: Push Wheel Temperature Mod

Post by roller » Thu Nov 28, 2013 2:55 pm

Sorry ... you can't use this design as I have patented the design and sold it to Stratasys ... they'll be suing you shortly (jokes)

Any credit for prior art though? 3.7ohms is closer to the 10 degree adjustment but over your whole range of you 1.8 ohms increments you are only about 3 degrees out so nothing much to worry about.

http://www.pp3dp.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... tch#p26708

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woofy
Posts: 118
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Re: Push Wheel Temperature Mod

Post by woofy » Thu Nov 28, 2013 3:45 pm

roller wrote:Sorry ... you can't use this design as I have patented the design and sold it to Stratasys ... they'll be suing you shortly
Argh!, Nooo, Tremble tremble ... .
roller wrote:Any credit for prior art though?
Absolutely, It was your use of the push wheel switch that inspired me.
roller wrote: 3.7ohms is closer to the 10 degree adjustment but over your whole range of you 1.8 ohms increments you are only about 3 degrees out so nothing much to worry about.
Hmmm! According to the chart I used:
http://www.intech.co.nz/products/temper ... ypert.html
The resistance at 260 degrees is 197.69 ohms. My total 18 ohms means the PT100 has to be 197.69-18=179.69 ohms for the UP to think its still 260 degrees. According to the chart that's between 210 and 211 degrees, so I should be only about half a degree out. However its a mute point, I know I've added 0.2 ohms in the wire/switch and I've only used 1% resistors so I could still be 2.5 degrees out. With 5 degree steps though, I'm happy with that.

What temperature do you normally print aftermarket ABS? The reel in the photo came from CD-Writer and seemed to print ok on "2" (245 degrees).
UP plus, Ultimaker2 & Raise N2+ Printers.

roller
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Joined: Sat Oct 06, 2012 9:09 pm
Location: Brisbane, Australia

Re: Push Wheel Temperature Mod

Post by roller » Fri Nov 29, 2013 6:24 am

Firstly, it doesn't really matter if you are out by much because finding the optimum temp for a plastic is firstly about experimentation and later about repeatability. So it doesn't matter if you are a few degrees out. Start temp is 270C I beleive not 260C. Your table is different to mine with 203.15ohms for 270, 199.48 for 260C and 221.2(ish) for 185.15 (203.15-18). You might want to go 3.6 on the first 3 to let you take it down to 200. 5C steps seems to offer more granularity than ended up being useful at the higher end though might see some benefits at the lower temp ranges.

230C is usually a good starting point for non genuine ABS. If it's sticking to the raft too much I step down a temp. I actually use gear bearing as my test print for temp once I'm pretty sure I have it. If it releases easily, has good print quality on the long curved perimeter and limited oozing on the layer change then I'm happy.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53451

Robin
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Re: Push Wheel Temperature Mod

Post by Robin » Fri Nov 29, 2013 9:09 am

Is the switch make before break or break before make?

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woofy
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Re: Push Wheel Temperature Mod

Post by woofy » Fri Nov 29, 2013 9:50 am

Thanks Roller, I'll be trying some test prints over the weekend.

Robin, It's break before make.
UP plus, Ultimaker2 & Raise N2+ Printers.

ktronik
Posts: 96
Joined: Thu Apr 25, 2013 4:52 am

Re: Push Wheel Temperature Mod

Post by ktronik » Fri Dec 06, 2013 6:11 am

Great mod love the little push wheel, why did I not think of that?? :)

great hack to the ribbon...

I must say, after all the testing, its sits on one setting most of the time...this setting is about ease of support removal, if the support is welded on, then down the temp goes, till its just right...but it not so low to cause delam....

it seems I go up one or down for cheaper plastic, but my nice plastic, its always the same temp... K

roller
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Re: Push Wheel Temperature Mod

Post by roller » Fri Dec 06, 2013 6:46 am

You know it's the first time I looked at all the photos ... for others considering this I recommend not cutting your cables and just buy a pair of JST connectors to give you a plug and play solution... a lot more reliable and also warranty friendly.

ktronik
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Joined: Thu Apr 25, 2013 4:52 am

Re: Push Wheel Temperature Mod

Post by ktronik » Fri Dec 06, 2013 8:22 am

roller wrote:You know it's the first time I looked at all the photos ... for others considering this I recommend not cutting your cables and just buy a pair of JST connectors to give you a plug and play solution... a lot more reliable and also warranty friendly.
Oh yes, sorry, not a good idea for everyone as you could stuff up shit and you can't undo it if you get it wrong, thx roller!

I also did the less invasive JST plug mod...;)

but points for neatness...;)

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woofy
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Re: Push Wheel Temperature Mod

Post by woofy » Fri Dec 06, 2013 11:22 am

Every mod I've seen so far involved putting the wheel/switch/pot on the head where it can easily connect to the JST's. As I explained, I wanted to avoid that. My printer is out of warranty so chopping an easily replaceable cable did not bother me.

I've done quite a bit of printing with this over the last few days, all with the same manufactures filament and I have settled on #4 position which gives good results across the colour range. I don't really know (or care) what the precise temperature is, just which number to print which plastic is enough. Its good to know though that now I can adjust it for most filaments.

These hollow, thin walled Xmas bells were printed with CD-Writer Yellow Fluorescent, raft-less at 150 micron. The loops are a bit "melty" but the bells came out great.
Image
UP plus, Ultimaker2 & Raise N2+ Printers.

roller
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Location: Brisbane, Australia

Re: Push Wheel Temperature Mod

Post by roller » Fri Dec 06, 2013 11:35 am

woofy wrote:Every mod I've seen so far involved putting the wheel/switch/pot on the head where it can easily connect to the JST's. As I explained, I wanted to avoid that. My printer is out of warranty so chopping an easily replaceable cable did not bother me.
Yeah, that's why I said for others because most would probably be best advised to take the safer route.

ktronik
Posts: 96
Joined: Thu Apr 25, 2013 4:52 am

Re: Push Wheel Temperature Mod

Post by ktronik » Fri Dec 06, 2013 9:39 pm

woofy wrote:Every mod I've seen so far involved putting the wheel/switch/pot on the head where it can easily connect to the JST's. As I explained, I wanted to avoid that. My printer is out of warranty so chopping an easily replaceable cable did not bother me.

I've done quite a bit of printing with this over the last few days, all with the same manufactures filament and I have settled on #4 position which gives good results across the colour range. I don't really know (or care) what the precise temperature is, just which number to print which plastic is enough. Its good to know though that now I can adjust it for most filaments.

These hollow, thin walled Xmas bells were printed with CD-Writer Yellow Fluorescent, raft-less at 150 micron. The loops are a bit "melty" but the bells came out great.
Image
I got mine in the same place as you...but only as I wanted to changed it on the fly....and a 12 position rotary is a bit bigger than a 2 position switch, and would not fit...

the wide temp range is good for PLA prints in ABS mode...;) however, I need to do a bed temp mod, as yes, in ABS mode my bed is hotter, and its leaves my PLA a bit soft for printing...

K

roller
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Location: Brisbane, Australia

Re: Push Wheel Temperature Mod

Post by roller » Sat Dec 07, 2013 5:59 am

The simplest bed temp mod for PLA is a deskfan. It will also help cooler the extruder motor to reduce jams and firm up the print faster.

tacticali
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Joined: Mon Apr 01, 2013 5:07 am

Re: Push Wheel Temperature Mod

Post by tacticali » Tue Mar 04, 2014 4:33 am

I looked at the push wheel datasheet, and it seems like the output is in bcd.
Can someone please explain in a little more detail how the resistors are connected to the bcd output to produce the correct series resistance?

roller
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Re: Push Wheel Temperature Mod

Post by roller » Tue Mar 04, 2014 6:31 am

There are a few different types of pushwheels. Took me a while to find one that wasn't binary. Sometimes searching for "decimal" pushwheel helps.

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woofy
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Re: Push Wheel Temperature Mod

Post by woofy » Tue Mar 04, 2014 8:42 am

My original post in this thread has a link to the decimal push wheel switch I used in this design.
UP plus, Ultimaker2 & Raise N2+ Printers.

techbuilder
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2014 10:38 pm

Re: Push Wheel Temperature Mod

Post by techbuilder » Mon Mar 24, 2014 4:54 pm

Hey roller do you have any temp mods left?

roller
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Re: Push Wheel Temperature Mod

Post by roller » Wed Mar 26, 2014 6:53 am

Yes I do. PM me if interested.

caesar
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Location: Romania

Another Push Wheel Temperature Mod

Post by caesar » Sat Apr 12, 2014 10:38 am

Finally i got time to build mine.
Credits and thanks go to woofy and roller for concocting this.



Files for enclosure and more details: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:296975
temp mod.jpg
temp mod.jpg (90.58 KiB) Viewed 25109 times


The little novelty is the small size and the fact that I didn't cut any wires nor did I prolonged the heater wires unnecessarily.

I just took out a crimp terminal from the connector, slid in it one wire of the temp mod and inside the connector I put in its place another crimp terminal with the second wire of the mod.
connection.jpg
connection.jpg (60.05 KiB) Viewed 25109 times

Mod case is attached with magnets to the case.
side.jpg
side.jpg (30.59 KiB) Viewed 25109 times

To keep calculations simple and with regard to current UP software temps, I just wired 5C per numer giving me a max of ~ 45C less when 9 is selected.

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