Problem in printing some parts

[snakesrules]

Hi there , as you can see , it seems that something is missing on the blue parts ... it looks ok on the black parts . I use the same print parameters for all parts . Could someone tell me why i have this result in my blue parts , looks like one layer is missing to "close" the part
blue parts are 3mm printed in fine/ "full " fill / 0.2mm layer
black parts are 4mm printed in fine/ "full " fill / 0.2mm layer


real size : http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2016/02/ ... 983149.jpg


real size : http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2016/02/ ... 983150.jpg

[Matchpoint]

few questions.
Same material and brand?
Was the enclosure closed both times?
Did you move or alter the printer in any way from printing one day to the next?
What was the time of day/outside conditions for both prints?

[snakesrules]

hi ,
material is ABS for both print at L1 235° / L2 230° / L3+ 220° ( softmod )
blue one is from Velleman, black one from Esun .
Enclosure is always closed , bed at about 80° ( temp mod ) and almost same conditions ( 20° in the room ) when printing .
I also didn't change nor redo the platform calibration between the differents print .

[Matchpoint]

which was printed first?

It definitely looks to appear to be something relating to the material itself. Its awfully stringy and a mess on the blue parts.

[snakesrules]

Not sure but the fact is that i've tried with an ABS i'm sure about it and the result is the same .
I think i will give it a try after recalibrating the platform .
I used to have a 0.2mm clearance between bed and nozzle but as i have a Bluetak film on my platform , maybe the clearance is a bit too high now .
I will try with 0.1mm clearance and let you know after .

[Matchpoint]

Take a picture of the first layer the printer puts down. That way we can see the height too.

[snakesrules]

Hi,
here is the result after new platform calibration and sorry, i forget to pause after 1st layer to take a picture


real size : http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2016/02/ ... 985876.jpg

edit : 2 photos after 1st layer , seems very fine


http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2016/02/ ... 986111.jpg


http://nsm08.casimages.com/img/2016/02/ ... 986112.jpg

[ricks01]

Can you post the stl file for the part?

[snakesrules]

Hi,
yes i will post it tonight .
I tried yesterday to change my temp settings : i was at L1 235° / L2 230° / L3+ 220° and i changed to L1 255° / L2 250° / L3+ 240° and the result is much better ! more coherency on the first layers

[dario.t]

Hi snakesrules

From my experience and how the prints look like I do assume that the printing temperature is too low.

If you are just in a try phase, go for much higher temperatures:

250 - 260°C

I think that the ABS is just not hot enough to "glue" with the other layers. The plastic coming out of the nozzle still needs to heat up the layer below to get proper adhesion.

I have realized that even with the recommended print temperatures the result isn't as it should be. So I had to run test prints to find the right temperature.

Have you done any other prints in between?

I hade once a similar problem with one of my "none" UP! printers and there it was a extruder/nozzle problem. I had to clean everything and reset the tension of the extruder spring. Then it printed again as it should.

Please check the feeder of your up mini (if you haven't done it already)

Give that all a try.

Cheers

Dario

[Matchpoint]

It looks to me like your nozzle height is to high as well as temperature to low. Can you take a picture of the first layer as it is printing on the perf board.

Thanks

[snakesrules]

Hi , my clearance between nozzle and platform is less than a sheet of paper so i thinks it's OK but as pointed by dario.t and in my previous post , the temperature is the key : i test a quick print yesterday evening with 20°C more on all layers and the result is much better than before .

[Matchpoint]

I run most of my abs around the default UP software temp 260, and I have never had a problem. I usually run PLA at around 210 ish.

[brainzilla]

I found that orientation and order of parts plays a role too.
I print 90% raftless, so the first layer is key to success.
Some directional combinations seem to tend ripping off / loose contact, others do better.
Also filament-diameter and other parameters may affect the amount of material put out.

I always check while printing the first layer and manually press up the bed to get closer to the nozzle.
If it fails, I stop and immediately re-print and try to match the fault by pressing again.

Also make sure your blue tape is always sticky. I rub it with iso-2-pro once in a while - that makes it sticky again.