Questions from new Up Plus 2 user

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hajime
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Questions from new Up Plus 2 user

Post by hajime » Fri Jul 11, 2014 9:37 am

Hello, I just got the Up Plus 2. I have a few questions:

1. When do I have to do Platform leveling calibration and Noozle height calibration? Do I have to do these two calibrations whenever I switch on the device?

2. In Quick Start Up Guide Section 5 Load filament part c. "3D Print" -> "Maintenance" -> "Extrude". What I should do if I want to stop the process? Just click stop all and then switch off the printer immediately?

3. I recall reading a posting that one should not turn off the printer immediately. One has to wait for the printer and nozzle to cool off first? For how long? Could you please let me know the proper procedure?

4. Under Setup, there are some parameters that I can set. Is there a recommended set of parameters that I could use to produce excellent printouts? I plan to make rigid objects like brackets most of the time.

5. With the included ABS, is it possible to make bendable objects?

6. What are the proper steps if I want to change color in the two cases? a) different colors on different objects, b) different colors on the same object

7. After I remove the printed object from the cellboard, do I have to do Platform leveling calibration and Noozle height calibration again? I can imagine that once I have removed the cellboard, the platform level might have changed and require re-calibration.

8. Do I have to go to Tools to Update ROM?

Thank you.

petej
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2014 2:39 am

Re: Questions from new Up Plus 2 user

Post by petej » Fri Jul 11, 2014 8:32 pm

  • You should check level and nozzle height when you first set up the printer. You do not need to check it after each print or whenever you turn on the printer. If you have trouble with prints sticking too well or not sufficiently, or if your prints look uneven, recheck level and nozzle height.
  • The Extrude command stops on its own in less than 30 seconds. No need for drastic measures.
  • When I’m done printing, I hold down the printer power button for five seconds or so. This lowers the bed and turns off the fan. Then I switch off power.
  • In Setup, there is a Restore Defaults button. Click it. You might want to experiment with changes after you’ve done some printing, but the default settings are a good starting point.
  • ABS will bend a little bit but if you want more flexibility you'll need a specialized filament such as Polymakr PolyFlex.
  • To change colors between print jobs, change the filament. To change filament on one print, open the Maintenance window and click Pause Print. Then snip the current filament just above the extruder, change spools, thread the new color in place and click Pause Print to resume printing. When the old filament drops below the intake of the extruder, guide the new filament behind it. If you need to, you can cycle Pause Print again to make it easier.

hajime
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Re: Questions from new Up Plus 2 user

Post by hajime » Sat Jul 12, 2014 1:21 pm

petej wrote:
  • You should check level and nozzle height when you first set up the printer. You do not need to check it after each print or whenever you turn on the printer. If you have trouble with prints sticking too well or not sufficiently, or if your prints look uneven, recheck level and nozzle height.
  • The Extrude command stops on its own in less than 30 seconds. No need for drastic measures.
  • When I’m done printing, I hold down the printer power button for five seconds or so. This lowers the bed and turns off the fan. Then I switch off power.
  • In Setup, there is a Restore Defaults button. Click it. You might want to experiment with changes after you’ve done some printing, but the default settings are a good starting point.
  • ABS will bend a little bit but if you want more flexibility you'll need a specialized filament such as Polymakr PolyFlex.
  • To change colors between print jobs, change the filament. To change filament on one print, open the Maintenance window and click Pause Print. Then snip the current filament just above the extruder, change spools, thread the new color in place and click Pause Print to resume printing. When the old filament drops below the intake of the extruder, guide the new filament behind it. If you need to, you can cycle Pause Print again to make it easier.
Thank you. Before printing, am I supposed to Preheat Platform for 15 minutes? There is another option of whether or not to heat the platform once the printing has done. Should I choose yes or no? I guess if I heat it, then it may be easier to remove the objects. However, it will be too hot to remove the cellboard from the printer.

doraemon
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Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2012 3:37 am

Re: Questions from new Up Plus 2 user

Post by doraemon » Sat Jul 12, 2014 3:06 pm

From a practical standpoint, it's better to start pre-heating before sending the print job because the bed takes longer to warm up than the extruder. If you don't pre-heat, the printer will just wait longer before actually starting to print because it needs the bed to reach a certain temp anyway.

I usually start the software, initialize the printer, and start preheat immediately. I then load the file I want to print, adjust settings as needed, and then wait for the bed to reach 60C. Once it does, start the Print. The time it takes the extruder to reach printing temp is about the same as the bed reaching 100C because of the initial pre-heat.

hajime
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Joined: Sat Apr 20, 2013 5:51 am

Re: Questions from new Up Plus 2 user

Post by hajime » Sun Jul 13, 2014 5:08 am

doraemon wrote:From a practical standpoint, it's better to start pre-heating before sending the print job because the bed takes longer to warm up than the extruder. If you don't pre-heat, the printer will just wait longer before actually starting to print because it needs the bed to reach a certain temp anyway.

I usually start the software, initialize the printer, and start preheat immediately. I then load the file I want to print, adjust settings as needed, and then wait for the bed to reach 60C. Once it does, start the Print. The time it takes the extruder to reach printing temp is about the same as the bed reaching 100C because of the initial pre-heat.
Is the option of pre-heating for 15 minutes good enough? Under Maintenance, there is an option to heat the platform for an hour. When should I use the 15-minute and the 1-hour option? Shall I also heat the platform after printing? It is an option under Print as I recall.

hajime
Posts: 143
Joined: Sat Apr 20, 2013 5:51 am

Re: Questions from new Up Plus 2 user

Post by hajime » Sun Jul 13, 2014 5:21 am

Is there a new manual for the Up Plus 2 and the latest software? The one posted in:

http://www.pp3dp.com/index.php?option=c ... ry&catid=3

seems to be made two years ago.

mr6k
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Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2012 11:47 am

Re: Questions from new Up Plus 2 user

Post by mr6k » Sun Jul 13, 2014 11:32 am

doreamon advised that th UP plus waits for the bed to heat up before it starts printing. Not sure this is the case. while I am not running the latest softwarem mine ignores the actual bed temperature and only uses the extruder up to temperature before printing.
For the bed temperature I tend to go into the maintenance window as soon as I have intitalisecthe printer and just turn the bed temp warm up on for 1 hour . So by the time I have loaded the job the bed is well on its way to 100 c for ABS.
cheers


Peter

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DrewPetitclerc
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Re: Questions from new Up Plus 2 user

Post by DrewPetitclerc » Sun Jul 13, 2014 4:38 pm

Hi All,

Here are the printing procedure steps I have taught to over 50 engineers/designers at my office, I keep a copy handy at all the printer stations and they have been very successful.
Hope this is helpful.

Regards
Drew

3D Printing checklist part one
1. Log onto computer
2. Turn on power strip to printer
3. Open “UP 2.12” software shortcut found on desktop
4. Initialize printer (select “3D Print” select “Initialize”) (Press button on front of printer till beep sounds)
5. Open “Maintenance” (select “3D Print” select “Maintenance”)
6. Select “Table Heat 1 hour
7. If changing plastic color, follow the next steps, otherwise skip to step 8.
• Snip plastic above extruder head with “flat” cutters.
• Remove unwanted roll, do not let unwind from reel.
• Install new roll by inserting up through cleaning foam and all the way through the plastic feed tube.
• Open “Maintenance” (select “3D Print” select “Maintenance”)
• Select “Extrude” button.
• When extruder reaches 260c beep will sound and extruding will begin for a limited time.
• Follow old plastic down extruder with new plastic until pinch roller takes hold.
• At least 2 extrudes will be needed to flush out old plastic.
8. Close “Maintenance” by selecting “RED X BOX” in upper right corner only.
9. Load STL (or UP file if pre-translated) file into software from USB stick or network share drive.
10. Select “Place” button to position part centered in build envelope and in contact with build plate.
11. Use “Move”, “Rotate” and “Scale” to position part for best build;
• Least amount of support needed.
• Best strength of thin segments.
12. Open “Maintenance” (select “3D Print” select “Maintenance”)
13. Check “Status:” of “Platform” if at least 60c you are ready to start print (max temp will be 100c).
14. Close “Maintenance” by selecting “RED X BOX” in upper right corner only..
15. Select “Print” buttons, Do Not modify “printer name” or “Nozzle Height” entries.
16. Select “Preferences”.
17. Set “Z Resolution” If using 0.150mm always use “raft”, all others can be done “No Raft” see step 25.
18. Set “Fill”.
19. “Part Angle” default should be “45 Deg”.
20. “Support Angle” default should be “50 Deg”.
21. “Other Stable Support” should be checked.
22. Select OK.
23. In main Print screen.
24. In “Options” “Quality” should be “Normal”, other settings can be tested.
25. In “Options” “No Raft” should be selected (we print on glass with glue stick), see step 17.
26. In “Options” “Heat platform after finish” should be set for 1 hour, to make continuous printing easier.
27. Select OK to begin print.
28. Before printing begins:
• If using “Perf” board be sure no plastic “bits” are standing too proud of board as nozzle will hit them
• If using glass covered in Kapton tape build plate give Kapton tape build plate a cleaning swipe with paper towel and alcohol.
• If using glass with “water soluble glue stick” covered build plate give glass build plate a cleaning swipe with paper towel and alcohol, then apply a thin even layer of glue slightly larger than the part to be built.
29. When Beeping starts before print begins use tweezers to “pick the nose” of the extruder nozzle (remove large plastic dangles (technical term)).

3D Printing checklist part two
1. Observe first layer to see if the plastic lines have a uniform width and sufficient press into the build plate
2. Listen to extruder for any “clicking” sounds that could indicate “feed skipping” (a sign of nozzle to build plate is too close).

3D Printing checklist part three

After printing is done;
1. Open “Maintenance” (select “3D Print” select “Maintenance”).
2. Select platform move “To Bottom” for better access to build plate (alternate-press and hold Initialize button till build plate moves down).
3. Close “Maintenance” by selecting RED X BOX in upper right corner only.
4. Carefully remove build plate with part on it from printer cabinet (Caution HOT, use glove).
5. Never try to remove part while build plate is still mounted to printer as this will ruin the tram.
6. Carefully remove part from build plate using spatula supplied with printer.
7. Replace build plate on build platform, align all edges.
8. Take note of step 2 before turning off power strip to printer.

Removing support material and cleanup;
1. Always wear glove on hand that holds part.
2. Always wear safety glasses.
3. Use care with sharp tools.
4. After support cleanup a quick dip or a vapor bath in Acetone for ABS parts can create a smooth clean part surface if needed.
5. After support removal the “white stressed” plastic areas can be removed with the a carefully brief application of heat from a “heat gun” used in shrink tubing applications
Drew Petitclerc
Petitclerc Designs
Owner/Senior Principal Designer, prototype, tooling and test equipment design and 3D printing
http://flash-graphics.deviantart.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/DrewPetitclerc

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josejuako
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Re: Questions from new Up Plus 2 user

Post by josejuako » Sun Jul 13, 2014 6:30 pm

WoW Drew !.

Thanks a lot is perfect the order !.


Jose

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DrewPetitclerc
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Re: Questions from new Up Plus 2 user

Post by DrewPetitclerc » Sun Jul 13, 2014 11:40 pm

josejuako wrote:WoW Drew !.
Thanks a lot is perfect the order !.
Jose
Thanks Jose,

But remember, these instruction only work because there are 2 of us at work that maintain, calibrate and test all the printers and test each new plastic to establish the best practices for success.

Regards
Drew
Drew Petitclerc
Petitclerc Designs
Owner/Senior Principal Designer, prototype, tooling and test equipment design and 3D printing
http://flash-graphics.deviantart.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/DrewPetitclerc

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josejuako
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Re: Questions from new Up Plus 2 user

Post by josejuako » Sun Jul 13, 2014 11:50 pm

Drew , I know, but it's nice to find the help that is the result of research and observation.



Jose

hajime
Posts: 143
Joined: Sat Apr 20, 2013 5:51 am

Re: Questions from new Up Plus 2 user

Post by hajime » Mon Jul 14, 2014 6:43 am

Drew, thanks for the detailed procedure. I have a few questions:

1. In Step 11, what do you mean by: "Least amount of support needed.• Best strength of thin segments."?

2. In Step 16, which fill type and what values for dense layer, space (line), area do you recommend?

3. In Step 28, what if we use BuildTake?

4. In Removing support material Step 4, you mentioned about quick dip or a vapor bath. By quick dip, do you mean dipping the object into acetone for a second and quickly remove it? Somewhere I heard that it could be dangerous to do vapor bath as heating acetone might cause fire/explosion.

hajime
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Re: Questions from new Up Plus 2 user

Post by hajime » Tue Jul 15, 2014 6:12 am

How come we do not need to do Auto Level and Nozzle Height Detect after the cellboard taken out and placed back? When we remove the cellboard and put it back, we certainly change the level and perhaps also the leveling of the platform somehow. Without doing Auto Level and Noozle Height Detect, won't such changes affect the next printing?

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DrewPetitclerc
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Re: Questions from new Up Plus 2 user

Post by DrewPetitclerc » Tue Jul 15, 2014 6:15 pm

hajime wrote:Drew, thanks for the detailed procedure. I have a few questions:
1. In Step 11, what do you mean by: "Least amount of support needed.• Best strength of thin segments."?
2. In Step 16, which fill type and what values for dense layer, space (line), area do you recommend?
3. In Step 28, what if we use BuildTake?
4. In Removing support material Step 4, you mentioned about quick dip or a vapor bath. By quick dip, do you mean dipping the object into acetone for a second and quickly remove it? Somewhere I heard that it could be dangerous to do vapor bath as heating acetone might cause fire/explosion.
Hi Hajime,

1. The orientation of your part on the build plate for print will determine where and how much support will be created, (less support = less cleanup work) and the "grain" direction of layers are important to the strength of the part (only you can tell what will be needed, how would I know without seeing the part?).
2. Fill type will depend on the part geometry (only you can tell what will be needed, how would I know without seeing the part?).
3. I currently use "BuildTak" applied directly to my glass build plate and they work really well, but again only because I have a very close trammed build plate to nozzle and my entire printers mechanical systems are reworked to be very rigid.
4. A quick dip is not a great visual, how fast can you dip the part, I mean you must "DO NOT LET THE PART STAY IN THE ACETONE FOR ANYTHING LONGER THAN A MILLISECOND", then air dry.
If you have some "Common Sense" then you will know that a chemical that is highly flammable is not to be played with lightly, that being said I work in a well ventilated area and I do not allow any flame or sparks nearby, the approximate temp at which acetone will turn to vapor can be skin temp and the vapor is heavier than air so it will for the most part stay in a container.

The amount of acetone vapor and the time it takes to smooth out a part can be as various as the stars in the sky.

The 2 methods I have experience with are:
1. I use an electric Crock-pot style cooker with a glass lid resting on a lazy suzan turntable, I cool the part in the freezer for a couple of minutes and then place the part in the Crock-pot on a raised grid and then squirt into the bottom of cooker the acetone, close lid, apply lowest heat, when the acetone begins bubbling (about 10 seconds) turn off heat, remove electrical plug (mine is magnetic) and slowly turn pot (this stirs the vapor) your part will appear wet immediately, in a couple of minutes or until you like what you see you are done, remove part and air dry.
If the part is still soft after air drying you can stop the melt by placing the part in a freezer again for a short time.

2. Some use (I do not) a large paint can or other container, they place the part in with a paper towel wetted with acetone, closed and placed in the sun to warm up, it can take 30 minutes or more to get results and it is difficult to see progress.

Regards
Drew
Drew Petitclerc
Petitclerc Designs
Owner/Senior Principal Designer, prototype, tooling and test equipment design and 3D printing
http://flash-graphics.deviantart.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/DrewPetitclerc

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