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Which is the best buildplate for the Up Plus 2?

Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 11:48 pm
by hajime
Hello, has anybody tried the above glass platform? As of today, what is the best build plate for the UP Plus 2? The stock build plate, the Octave Garolite LE 3D Printer Plate, Borosilicate glass plate, etc.?

http://www.octave.com/p1173433237/Octav ... _info.html

Re: Which is the best buildplate for the Up Plus 2?

Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 11:58 pm
by doraemon
We've been using regular float glass available from your local hardware, art supply, or glass shop. This is used in conjunction with a MIC6 aluminum build plate. The borosilicate would be better from a thermal expansion standpoint, but I've only seen the float glass crack twice: once when a large printed part was allowed to cool slowly on the plate (and the induced stresses built up) and once when I dropped the glass on the floor. Considering the price of the borosilicate glass covered the cost of buying 6 panes of the plain stuff, I wouldn't personally bother.

Re: Which is the best buildplate for the Up Plus 2?

Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2014 1:47 am
by josejuako
I prefer glass I use thermofusion glass .
Is cheap glass very cheap . http://www.pacificartglass.com/index.ph ... cat_id=137 I use black to absorbs the temperature . Is an example but you can find best prices in 3 mm. more area whit the same money .
Other example http://www.creativeglassguild.co.uk/pro ... ransparent I don't know where but I know is cheap I bought in my country very cheap in USA are the builders .

http://accuratus.com/fused.html


http://pp3dp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f= ... 698#p28397



J

Re: Which is the best buildplate for the Up Plus 2?

Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2014 2:30 am
by JuliaDee
I use perfboard most of the time. Scuff it with Scotchbrite or sandpaper when it's new, hit it with Elmer's glue stick before every print. I use glass (regular 3/32" window glass) for rubber filament or when I want to save time on small parts by going raftless.

I bought some gecko but have never tried it.

julia

EDIT: I am using Up Plus 1, not 2

Re: Which is the best buildplate for the Up Plus 2?

Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2014 12:25 pm
by ming
Perfboard users,
All i have are the perfboard that came with the machine and i finally got a part to print that is larger than the limit and i had to design the part in two pieces and join them. The print covered approx 75 of the area and when it stop printing i removed the clips and the perfboards was deformed to a point i can see the edges and center bowed up about 0.5mm
My part also bowed after cool down less than 0.5mm

So im not sure if i will use perfboard for large objects

ANy suggestions will be greatly appreciated

Re: Which is the best buildplate for the Up Plus 2?

Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2014 7:32 pm
by wilsonj
Perfboard for me too. I've tried lots of other sub straits but perf is the most reliable. Glass is fine if you want to do raftless. Gekko and the like also work fine, but just aren't as forgiving and don't last IMO.

Re: Which is the best buildplate for the Up Plus 2?

Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2014 10:21 pm
by ming
wilsonj wrote:Perfboard for me too. I've tried lots of other sub straits but perf is the most reliable. Glass is fine if you want to do raftless. Gekko and the like also work fine, but just aren't as forgiving and don't last IMO.
Do you get warping issues with large parts on perf board ?

Re: Which is the best buildplate for the Up Plus 2?

Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 12:18 am
by JuliaDee
MingTai wrote:
wilsonj wrote:Perfboard for me too. I've tried lots of other sub straits but perf is the most reliable. Glass is fine if you want to do raftless. Gekko and the like also work fine, but just aren't as forgiving and don't last IMO.
Do you get warping issues with large parts on perf board ?
Some parts in ABS will warp no matter what you do. You can get complete adhesion of the raft to the perfboard and the part will rip itself off the raft if it really wants to. Then you have to look at more control of the temperature environment (heat the build volume to 50C or so and cool it very slowly after the print) or alternative materials with less shrinkage.

Re: Which is the best buildplate for the Up Plus 2?

Posted: Sun Mar 23, 2014 5:17 pm
by ming
Just got this to try later tonight
Image

Glass buildplate - What base layer does everyone use

Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 2:36 am
by ming
And what kind of results have you experienced with glass build plates - with what base layer.

Ive heard using elmers glue - specifically the purple one = http://www.elmers.com/product/detail/E5 ... glue-stick

What if you use some other elmers glue - would it not work ? what is the purple dissapearing model better than the others
http://www.elmers.com/products/glues-an ... k?Page=All

Re: Which is the best buildplate for the Up Plus 2?

Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 3:26 am
by doraemon
I don't know the reasons behind the chemistry involved. The purple disappearing is water-soluble and likely has a specific formulation that means it's non-toxic (and kid-safe). There may be completely usable substitutions, but I don't know who has figured what also works. I do know non-Elmer's purple works, too.

Re: Which is the best buildplate for the Up Plus 2?

Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 4:28 am
by JuliaDee
I've found that the "school" grade of Elmer's glue stick is noticeably weaker than the non-school ("commercial grade", I guess). Don't use the one labeled "school". I now use glue stick for every ABS or nylon print; it can't hurt and seems to really help.

I did try it today on my gMax, which has an acrylic build plate and uses Colorfabb PLA+PHA as its preferred material, and it was terrible - seemed to make it not stick at all, as if it was grease. Strange.

Re: Which is the best buildplate for the Up Plus 2?

Posted: Mon Mar 24, 2014 10:38 am
by scubamatt41
Hi,

I sell the "like" board. I started a give away for free thingy on this forum some time ago. I only kept one board for myself and I have been using it since ( approx. Aug 2013 )
The sheets I sell have no problem with heat. Not on MINI (50°C) or PLUS (100°C). Also printing with PLA (no heat bed) is no problem.

This sheet can be made to fit other brand 3d printer. Just email me and we work something out

The material properties are also pretty much the same as with the Gekko but it will not deform as much. I can still supply these from 3mm upto 5mm ( or thicker if you want ) and in any size.

Best thing to do is to send me a pm

Cheers, Matt