http://www.octave.com/p1173433237/Octav ... _info.html
Is cheap glass very cheap . http://www.pacificartglass.com/index.ph ... cat_id=137 I use black to absorbs the temperature . Is an example but you can find best prices in 3 mm. more area whit the same money .
Other example http://www.creativeglassguild.co.uk/pro ... ransparent I don't know where but I know is cheap I bought in my country very cheap in USA are the builders .
http://pp3dp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f= ... 698#p28397
I bought some gecko but have never tried it.
EDIT: I am using Up Plus 1, not 2
All i have are the perfboard that came with the machine and i finally got a part to print that is larger than the limit and i had to design the part in two pieces and join them. The print covered approx 75 of the area and when it stop printing i removed the clips and the perfboards was deformed to a point i can see the edges and center bowed up about 0.5mm
My part also bowed after cool down less than 0.5mm
So im not sure if i will use perfboard for large objects
ANy suggestions will be greatly appreciated
Do you get warping issues with large parts on perf board ?wilsonj wrote:Perfboard for me too. I've tried lots of other sub straits but perf is the most reliable. Glass is fine if you want to do raftless. Gekko and the like also work fine, but just aren't as forgiving and don't last IMO.
Some parts in ABS will warp no matter what you do. You can get complete adhesion of the raft to the perfboard and the part will rip itself off the raft if it really wants to. Then you have to look at more control of the temperature environment (heat the build volume to 50C or so and cool it very slowly after the print) or alternative materials with less shrinkage.MingTai wrote:Do you get warping issues with large parts on perf board ?wilsonj wrote:Perfboard for me too. I've tried lots of other sub straits but perf is the most reliable. Glass is fine if you want to do raftless. Gekko and the like also work fine, but just aren't as forgiving and don't last IMO.
Ive heard using elmers glue - specifically the purple one = http://www.elmers.com/product/detail/E5 ... glue-stick
What if you use some other elmers glue - would it not work ? what is the purple dissapearing model better than the others
http://www.elmers.com/products/glues-an ... k?Page=All
I did try it today on my gMax, which has an acrylic build plate and uses Colorfabb PLA+PHA as its preferred material, and it was terrible - seemed to make it not stick at all, as if it was grease. Strange.
I sell the "like" board. I started a give away for free thingy on this forum some time ago. I only kept one board for myself and I have been using it since ( approx. Aug 2013 )
The sheets I sell have no problem with heat. Not on MINI (50°C) or PLUS (100°C). Also printing with PLA (no heat bed) is no problem.
This sheet can be made to fit other brand 3d printer. Just email me and we work something out
The material properties are also pretty much the same as with the Gekko but it will not deform as much. I can still supply these from 3mm upto 5mm ( or thicker if you want ) and in any size.
Best thing to do is to send me a pm