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Octave grey part 2

Posted: Thu Oct 10, 2013 10:03 am
by pilotltd
Continued from part 1

235 C = still there but much smaller and more of them, hard to remove from raft without causing damage.
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240 C = none, impossible to remove from the raft.
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This next shot shows them edge-on on the 225 and 230C prints.
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The vent open makes them worse. They are very hard next time the print nozzle encounters them. All the above were printed nozzle closed. Opening the nozzle on a 240C print didn't help raft removal.

The cause of the problem is the position and size of the internal fill structure and where the line terminates compounded by stringy ABS . The print head sometimes finishes in a hole, but the Octave grey is the worst behaving material I've tried so far. I have had a print move using Octave green, but that was the nozzle continually hitting the support structure before rectracting for the next layer.

Comments or suggestions welcome.

Steve

Re: Octave grey part 2

Posted: Thu Oct 10, 2013 12:30 pm
by roller
You could try adding a pause before your print starts to cool the raft and help separation. Eg.

http://www.pp3dp.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... aft#p27963

Also, I think you should be able to add pics to a new post rather than making a new topic. If not why not just link in images from Flickr .. with 1TB of hosting it will be a while before you run out of space.

Re: Octave grey part 2

Posted: Thu Oct 10, 2013 9:35 pm
by pilotltd
roller wrote:You could try adding a pause before your print starts to cool the raft and help separation. Eg.

http://www.pp3dp.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... aft#p27963

Also, I think you should be able to add pics to a new post rather than making a new topic. If not why not just link in images from Flickr .. with 1TB of hosting it will be a while before you run out of space.
I'll give the 0.2 pause thing a whirl. I've taken the grey spool off and consigned it to the junk cupboard for now :(

Forum will only let me put 3 pictures per post for some reason. I don't like Flickr - full of email address harvesters and your details given to "yahoo affiliates".

Re: Octave grey part 2

Posted: Thu Oct 10, 2013 11:37 pm
by roller
I'm a long time Flickr user and created it using my long time junk email account so works nicely for me. There are other more friendly picture hosts you could link in from. One of the boards I moderate doesn't allow pictures at all to keep the space requirements for the forum down - links only so I guess they've allowed what they consider to be a reasonable number and it's way more convenient than none I guess - especially when you have an issue.

Re: Octave grey part 2

Posted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 2:15 pm
by JuliaDee
pilotltd wrote:Forum will only let me put 3 pictures per post for some reason.
Yes, but you can just "reply" to your own post and add 3 more, and so on. Much better to keep it all in one thread.

Re: Octave grey part 2

Posted: Fri Oct 11, 2013 4:07 pm
by roller
That's what I thought.

Re: Octave grey part 2

Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 6:50 am
by chippwalters
I'm using the Octave 2 position switch (not the newer versions) set to 'Octave' and have had decent results with the Octave Grey filament. I've been building an Aquarium LED mount (not finished) and was able to create a nicely toleranced part:

Re: Octave grey part 2

Posted: Wed Oct 16, 2013 2:23 pm
by teamcarlisle
I don't have any pics to post, but I've gone through 2 spools of the octave Grey and I love it. I print on fine at 0.15mm - 0.25mm with the fan closed (I always leave it closed for abs) and I use the original octave switch. rafts and support have always been easy to remove. If you have a hard time with the plastic turning white from stress after raft and support removal you can turn it back to Grey with a heatgun. I have a soldering kit that has a "hot air reworking tool" that I use on my prints. I like Grey color for prints in general because you can see detail and shadows so much easier :)