Anything like THIS for Up/Afinia?

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chippwalters
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Anything like THIS for Up/Afinia?

Post by chippwalters » Fri Sep 06, 2013 5:37 am

Tom Meeks is not the most advanced user out there, but he does a very thorough job documenting his approaches with his Cubify Cube V1 & V2 at his blog.

For instance, he has many tests he's run to help folks understand tolerances and how best to design their models:
http://cubifyfans.blogspot.com/search?q=print+test

Some questions I'd like to know if there are answers for:
  1. Is there any such blog or set of articles that does the same for UP! ?
  2. Are there best practices for basic wall thicknesses and supportless openings (ABS)? For instance, for Cube I typically use .06" walls and a >30 degree angle for supportless openings.
  3. Is there any shrinkage data typically used? For instance for Cube V1, I typically 'offset skin' a bolt by 0.025" before boolean differencing from it's nut. This usually results in a nice tight fit.
  4. Is it 'better' to work in metric because of the software?
  5. I don't understand how the z-gap and level settings are stored. Are they stored with the computer, the print file, or in the device itself? I've heard about settings 'resetting to default.' How does this happen? How can you back up your settings?
  6. Has anyone printed with the wood LAYWOO filament? I saw one post but I didn't get a feel for how easy the process is. Is the finish 'plasticky' or does it actually look like wood? Is there a way to 'adjust' the print head temperature while printing to create the 'wood grain?' What about the sandstone LAYBRICK filament?
  7. Is there a scripting language for the 'make' files? Is the format open?
Thanks for any help! Much appreciated. Printer should arrive tomorrow (fingers crossed!)

chippwalters
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Re: Anything like THIS for Up/Afinia?

Post by chippwalters » Fri Sep 06, 2013 6:26 am

Some more Newbie questions...
  • Is there a really good tutorial on leveling the print bed and doing the calibration?
  • It seems to me you would want a fixed size element, say a .5" cube block, instead of a folded sheet of paper, for leveling the print head. That way you would never worry about running the nozzle into the bed itself. Does this make sense to anyone but me? :)
  • Also, do you 'reset' the calibration BEFORE printing the calibration pattern? Or do you do it BEFORE you enter the calibration offsets?
  • Does the calibration offset settings only work when printing with a raft (I seem to have read about warp offsets working only with rafts) ?
Thanks again :D

roller
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Location: Brisbane, Australia

Re: Anything like THIS for Up/Afinia?

Post by roller » Fri Sep 06, 2013 8:54 am

chippwalters wrote:Tom Meeks is not the most advanced user out there, but he does a very thorough job documenting his approaches with his Cubify Cube V1 & V2 at his blog.

For instance, he has many tests he's run to help folks understand tolerances and how best to design their models:
http://cubifyfans.blogspot.com/search?q=print+test

Some questions I'd like to know if there are answers for:
  1. Is there any such blog or set of articles that does the same for UP! ?
  2. Are there best practices for basic wall thicknesses and supportless openings (ABS)? For instance, for Cube I typically use .06" walls and a >30 degree angle for supportless openings.
  3. Is there any shrinkage data typically used? For instance for Cube V1, I typically 'offset skin' a bolt by 0.025" before boolean differencing from it's nut. This usually results in a nice tight fit.
  4. Is it 'better' to work in metric because of the software?
  5. I don't understand how the z-gap and level settings are stored. Are they stored with the computer, the print file, or in the device itself? I've heard about settings 'resetting to default.' How does this happen? How can you back up your settings?
  6. Has anyone printed with the wood LAYWOO filament? I saw one post but I didn't get a feel for how easy the process is. Is the finish 'plasticky' or does it actually look like wood? Is there a way to 'adjust' the print head temperature while printing to create the 'wood grain?' What about the sandstone LAYBRICK filament?
  7. Is there a scripting language for the 'make' files? Is the format open?
Thanks for any help! Much appreciated. Printer should arrive tomorrow (fingers crossed!)
!. Not really but this forum is really active and full of great advice - I do think it would be good to gather all the advice up in a Wiki though (are you listen PP3DP)
2. The slicer will ignore walls thinner than about 0.8mm (sorry I live outside the two countries in the world who aren't metric) which is small than 0.06" (1.5mm). Walls of 1.2mm produce better results
3. Shrinkage actually relates to you plastic. Most ABS are pretty similar in shrinkage with rare exceptions so you rules for Cube should carry across though you might find the genuine Up filament behaves a little differently in shrinkage.
4. I'll leave that for someone else to answer. Can't imagine why you'd want to work in a non decimal system though.
5. The platform start height is stored in the printer so if you install the software on another machine it's there ready to print without doing a height calibration again. This is nice but some version upgrades or bouncing between Mac and Windows has also wiped the settings. Fortunately it is displayed each time you print so I've always been able to remember it.
6> Yup, I've used laywoo and the user wilsonj has too if you want to search some posts. To modify the temp you need to make a hardware mod which is a plug in device to let you step the temp. It's easy to make if you have some basic soldering skills. Search the forum for results. Here's some we've done recently:
http://www.pp3dp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=22170
A temp is essenital for using non genuine ABS and getting results just as good as the genuine filament.
7. No and no

on your other questions:
1. Search here and you'll find many discussions plus I think the manual does an ok job.
2. The bed has give and you only move down a fraction at a time. The process isn't really designed for being done with an offset and when you do it hot with a cube block you are not quite simulating the print start conditions. two sheets of paper is a "rule of thumb" feeler guage" but typically you might modify this a little after the print. Becuase the Up usually prints a raft it's a little less sensitive to being a fraction too high (though may affect adhesion) or too low. Many experienced users with demanding prints start a little too low to force inject ABS into the perfboard for exceptional adhesion.
3.4. I have never had a sufficiently clear explanation of the calibration. Perhaps someone can fill that in.

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JuliaDee
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Re: Anything like THIS for Up/Afinia?

Post by JuliaDee » Sat Sep 07, 2013 1:01 am

chippwalters wrote:Some more Newbie questions...
  • Is there a really good tutorial on leveling the print bed and doing the calibration?
  • It seems to me you would want a fixed size element, say a .5" cube block, instead of a folded sheet of paper, for leveling the print head. That way you would never worry about running the nozzle into the bed itself. Does this make sense to anyone but me? :)
  • Also, do you 'reset' the calibration BEFORE printing the calibration pattern? Or do you do it BEFORE you enter the calibration offsets?
  • Does the calibration offset settings only work when printing with a raft (I seem to have read about warp offsets working only with rafts) ?
Thanks again :D
After you've gained some experience with the machine the initial height setting and bed leveling procedures will be second nature. I know what the right gap looks like now and I don't even use paper or any feeler gauge anymore, I just eyeball it. Put the clips in the middle of the perfboard instead at the corners, get my eye level with the bed and use the platform movement buttons to go from corner to corner and to center while watching the gap.

You'll also learn to recognize a good first layer bead. Too smooshed or nozzle blockage means you need to lower your initial height (go in 0.1mm steps). If the bead sits on top of the platform with no smooshing then your initial height is too low.

My 16-month old Up needs to be re-levelled once in a while (I never got around to doing Drew's stack-of-rubber-washers mod) and needs its initial height bumped up 0.1mm once a week or so. My 4-month old Afinia hasn't needed leveling or height adjustment yet.

I would recommend leveling before doing the calibration thing, mostly because you want the calibration print to be well-adhered. Your bed being out of level won't affect the verticality of the print, which is what the calibration procedure is about. Raft/no raft shouldn't have anything to do with verticality calibration either.

julia

chippwalters
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Anything like THIS for Up/Afinia?

Post by chippwalters » Sat Sep 07, 2013 10:57 pm

Thanks Julia. Most helpful!

roller
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Re: Anything like THIS for Up/Afinia?

Post by roller » Sun Sep 08, 2013 3:07 am

Awww ... you didn't like my comments? ;) ;)

chippwalters
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Anything like THIS for Up/Afinia?

Post by chippwalters » Sun Sep 08, 2013 3:26 am

Sorry roller, I need to offer you a very special thank you for all of your help in this form. For a while I just assumed you were the moderator. Is that not the case? Even so, a big thanks!

roller
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Re: Anything like THIS for Up/Afinia?

Post by roller » Sun Sep 08, 2013 3:31 am

Lol, no ... not the moderator ... I wouldn't let through all the 2D printer spam :P I do moderate some CNC forums if you want to visit those :)

Just a happy user and keen 3D fabrication fan (built nearly 30 3D printers and CNCs for people over the last 4 years).

FallGuy
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Re: Anything like THIS for Up/Afinia?

Post by FallGuy » Mon Sep 09, 2013 4:22 pm

Now that Julia and Roller did the heavy lifting on most of the questions, I'll take a swing on #4, "Is it better to work in metric because of the software?" From a pure technical point, it really doesn't matter, especially if you will be scaling your models inside the UP print software just to get it to fit inside the print volume.

But for models that I need to print at a 1 to 1 scale I have found myself creating all of my part files with metric dimensions. This helps me make sure that I have no feature, wall thickness, or layer height that would be too small or thin for the print setting I have picked to print at. If one of the dimensions is too small, then the STL slicer may leave it out as Roller pointed out. By working in a metric system it is a little easier to to be aware of how close my feature sizes are to those critical limits.
Thanks,

FallGuy

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