Tom Meeks is not the most advanced user out there, but he does a very thorough job documenting his approaches with his Cubify Cube V1 & V2 at his blog.
For instance, he has many tests he's run to help folks understand tolerances and how best to design their models:
Some questions I'd like to know if there are answers for:
- Is there any such blog or set of articles that does the same for UP! ?
- Are there best practices for basic wall thicknesses and supportless openings (ABS)? For instance, for Cube I typically use .06" walls and a >30 degree angle for supportless openings.
- Is there any shrinkage data typically used? For instance for Cube V1, I typically 'offset skin' a bolt by 0.025" before boolean differencing from it's nut. This usually results in a nice tight fit.
- Is it 'better' to work in metric because of the software?
- I don't understand how the z-gap and level settings are stored. Are they stored with the computer, the print file, or in the device itself? I've heard about settings 'resetting to default.' How does this happen? How can you back up your settings?
- Has anyone printed with the wood LAYWOO filament? I saw one post but I didn't get a feel for how easy the process is. Is the finish 'plasticky' or does it actually look like wood? Is there a way to 'adjust' the print head temperature while printing to create the 'wood grain?' What about the sandstone LAYBRICK filament?
- Is there a scripting language for the 'make' files? Is the format open?
Thanks for any help! Much appreciated. Printer should arrive tomorrow (fingers crossed!)
!. Not really but this forum is really active and full of great advice - I do think it would be good to gather all the advice up in a Wiki though (are you listen PP3DP)
2. The slicer will ignore walls thinner than about 0.8mm (sorry I live outside the two countries in the world who aren't metric) which is small than 0.06" (1.5mm). Walls of 1.2mm produce better results
3. Shrinkage actually relates to you plastic. Most ABS are pretty similar in shrinkage with rare exceptions so you rules for Cube should carry across though you might find the genuine Up filament behaves a little differently in shrinkage.
4. I'll leave that for someone else to answer. Can't imagine why you'd want to work in a non decimal system though.
5. The platform start height is stored in the printer so if you install the software on another machine it's there ready to print without doing a height calibration again. This is nice but some version upgrades or bouncing between Mac and Windows has also wiped the settings. Fortunately it is displayed each time you print so I've always been able to remember it.
6> Yup, I've used laywoo and the user wilsonj has too if you want to search some posts. To modify the temp you need to make a hardware mod which is a plug in device to let you step the temp. It's easy to make if you have some basic soldering skills. Search the forum for results. Here's some we've done recently:
A temp is essenital for using non genuine ABS and getting results just as good as the genuine filament.
7. No and no
on your other questions:
1. Search here and you'll find many discussions plus I think the manual does an ok job.
2. The bed has give and you only move down a fraction at a time. The process isn't really designed for being done with an offset and when you do it hot with a cube block you are not quite simulating the print start conditions. two sheets of paper is a "rule of thumb" feeler guage" but typically you might modify this a little after the print. Becuase the Up usually prints a raft it's a little less sensitive to being a fraction too high (though may affect adhesion) or too low. Many experienced users with demanding prints start a little too low to force inject ABS into the perfboard for exceptional adhesion.
3.4. I have never had a sufficiently clear explanation of the calibration. Perhaps someone can fill that in.