Conversion of UP! to Reprap Electronics

Post improvements made for UP, and share ideas.
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changfrancis
Posts: 55
Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2010 7:43 am

Conversion of UP! to Reprap Electronics

Post by changfrancis » Wed May 22, 2013 6:01 pm

Hi all,

I have been a Up! user for the pass 3 yrs, but recently my Up had died on me. I was unable to troubleshoot if the motherboard or main chip is faulty. Hence, decided to buy a new UP! and convert the old faulty Up! with RAMPS 1.4 electronics.
Currently I have link up with RAMPS 1.4 electronics, using Marlin firmware and Pronterface.

I manage to get it to run with RAMPS but just like all reprap there is a lot of customisation to be done. Hope that someone here had done similar conversion and guide me along.

I am having problem homing the Marlin firmware as Up! one have 1x limit switch for Z axis and it is on the at the bottom. Most reprap home Z with extrude height. Does anyone know how can it home reprap using only lower limit switch ?
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changfrancis
Posts: 55
Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2010 7:43 am

Re: Conversion of UP! to Reprap Electronics

Post by changfrancis » Mon May 27, 2013 2:16 pm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AM7GPTJZcMY

Share with all my UP! Ramps dry run print of the 20mm cube.

Currently, waiting for the hotend to arrive from ebay.

changfrancis
Posts: 55
Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2010 7:43 am

Re: Conversion of UP! to Reprap Electronics

Post by changfrancis » Sat Jun 08, 2013 9:28 am

First Successful print with the mod. The printer is faster and accurate as before.

20mm cube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fnE7mubT5-s

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JuliaDee
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Re: Conversion of UP! to Reprap Electronics

Post by JuliaDee » Sat Jun 08, 2013 3:01 pm

Congratulations, Francis! Nice exercise.

outsider
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Post by outsider » Sat Jun 08, 2013 3:42 pm

Francis, can you post some more details about your conversion?
I know you were looking for guidance on how to do the conversion, but you may be the first to talk about it.
In case someone else ends up with a dead motherboard it would be handy to have a how-to on converting the Up to reprap electronics.

Some questions:
- How much did the conversion cost you?
- Did you make any mechanical modifications or are they all electrical?

Cheers!

Adrian
adrian.
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changfrancis
Posts: 55
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Re: Conversion of UP! to Reprap Electronics

Post by changfrancis » Sun Jun 09, 2013 10:49 am

The problem started with my Up! unable to detect the temperature of the extruder, it shows a constant 265degree even when i just power it. I started troubleshooting but along the way i notice it burnt my 5V regulator, I don't short anything, it just die on me. I went down to my local Up! store, they quoted a brief price of $500+USD for the motherboard. As my motherboard is version 7, they told me that additional $100USD is required for the new 19V power supply.

I was ok with paying for the repair service until they told me that they have limited knowledge for troubleshooting also, they will just swap the motherboard and main CPU to try. If it fails, it may incur another 1.4K for the CPU. I was like OMG. Hence, I decided to payment a entire new Up! from the local store and Mod my spoiled Up!

So here it goes.

1. Things you need
I bought a Ramps 1.4 electronics ful kit from Gadgets 3D. I recommend buying from gadgets 3d because their shipping is fast, they use DHL less than <3 working days.

But if you don't want to spend so much following is the minimum item need for the conversion.
a. Ramps 1.4 Adaptor Board
b. Ardurino Mega
c. Stepper moter driver board (min 4 pcs)
d. 6mm heater cartridge (min 2 pcs)
e. EPCOS 100k temperature sensor (min 2 pcs)
f. Some wires
g. Some connectors/headers/pins to do re-connection of electronics
i. LCD module + SD reader (optional)
j. 12V power supply, min 10A rating.

2. Modification
After all the components arrive, you will need to re-connectors the circuit, Wiring Section in http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4. Almost 90% of the wires are original, only new wires are for the heater and thermistor.
a. Re position all the stepper wires, ensure the red, blue, green. black wires are in the correct order
b. remove the original limit switch connector, re-connect them to 2 pins configuration
c. remove the original extruder and heater bed connector, re-connector to D08 and D10 on Ramps
d. throw away original heater cartridge and thermistor. Solder and connect the new ones. I use all most of the original wires.
e. Cut a hole by the side of the original motherboard cover. Re-route all wires to the side where you can mount the Ramps 1.4
f. connect the fan to D09 of Ramps
g. connect the 12V power supply

3. Software
a. Marlin Firmware
b. Pronterface
c. Slic3r

4. Cost
The whole modification cost about $150-200USD. I cost me $250USD as i bought extra connector,heated bed and heater cartridge for testing.
Time effort about 5 days.

Conclusion
By doing the conversion. I get to understand how much effort the Up! engineers put in developing the printer. Good job Up! company.
Reprap requires a lot of patient to print an object, not user friendly. Although with the new software and electronics, i allow me to be flexible on the speed and temperature.

I would say, if you are a avg user with no engineering background just go ahead and buy a new Up! printer for replacement.

outsider
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Joined: Tue Mar 12, 2013 2:08 pm

Re: Conversion of UP! to Reprap Electronics

Post by outsider » Tue Sep 17, 2013 6:54 pm

Francis,
Thanks for the cost and part breakdown for the conversion.

How do you find the Up Plus printer working with different electronics compared to how the printer worked with the original electronics?

Guess I'm wondering just how much of the "print quality" comes from the hardware and how much comes from the software/electronics. You are in a good position to answer that since the hardware didn't change and all you did was add different electronics to your system.
adrian.
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roller
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Location: Brisbane, Australia

Re: Conversion of UP! to Reprap Electronics

Post by roller » Wed Sep 18, 2013 12:03 am

Half your print quality comes from the hardware (how well you can tension and align a home built printer) and the other half comes from the software which needs to be tuned to your design. Here you don't have to worry about the hardware half.

Many slicing programs will do a good job straight away with Up hardware. Maybe not quite as good as Up software but pretty close - it depends on the version and release you get but with experimentation you should be able to get even better quality prints that print faster than the Up original software. The downside is you lose removable support capability.

Marcus
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Location: Germany

Re: Conversion of UP! to Reprap Electronics

Post by Marcus » Mon Sep 23, 2013 4:41 am

Thanks for sharing!
Good to know I can zombiefy my UP if it ever dies of natural causes :-)

changfrancis
Posts: 55
Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2010 7:43 am

Re: Conversion of UP! to Reprap Electronics

Post by changfrancis » Tue Oct 01, 2013 4:27 am

Currently i have 2x UP! printer, one original and the other modified with ramps 1.4.

Both are working fine.

If you ask me, I felt that the quality for print is very close to the original UP!. The open source slicer and marlin firmware can do a pretty good job with the UP! precision hardware. The only lacking part is the support structures, the slic3r is unable to generate nice support structure as compared to the original UP! software.

As for the hardware, I had to modify the extruder with a small heater block, as the 12V 40W heat from open source is not as powerful as the UP! 80W heater. You will really need to have a heater chamber to trap the heat. :D

conclusion:
I preferred original UP! as the software is much more user friendly, no product design limitation. Open source requires more tuning and understanding of the machine but it is a very good learning process.

John Core
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Re: Conversion of UP! to Reprap Electronics

Post by John Core » Mon Jan 05, 2015 3:47 pm

Hello Francis, could you share your marlin firmware configuration?

I try to configured it, but I have a problem about the z-axis move further than it should.

Thanks in advance.

changfrancis
Posts: 55
Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2010 7:43 am

Re: Conversion of UP! to Reprap Electronics

Post by changfrancis » Sun Jan 11, 2015 9:18 am

I have attached the configuration.h file.

Slic3r: Start G code
M106; on FAN
G28 F500; home at X0 Y0 Z140
G0 X10 Y10 Z15 F400;
M109 S210 ; wait for temperature to be reached
G1 E6 F100;

Slic3r: End G code
M104 S0 ; turn off temperature
M106; on FAN
G1 X0; home X axis
G1 Y100; home Y axis
G1 Z140 ; home Z axis

Recently, i had also made changes to the extruder to E3D. Works better then the original extruder when use with 3rd party filament.
Attachments
Capture slicer.JPG
Capture slicer.JPG (25.37 KiB) Viewed 21062 times
IMG_0580.JPG
IMG_0580.JPG (29.36 KiB) Viewed 21062 times
IMG_0579.JPG
IMG_0579.JPG (26.12 KiB) Viewed 21062 times

changfrancis
Posts: 55
Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2010 7:43 am

Re: Conversion of UP! to Reprap Electronics

Post by changfrancis » Sun Jan 11, 2015 9:21 am

config file

// coarse Endstop Settings
#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors

#ifndef ENDSTOPPULLUPS
// fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
#endif

#ifdef ENDSTOPPULLUPS
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
#endif

// The pullups are needed if you directly connect a mechanical endswitch between the signal and ground pins.
const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
//#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS
//#define DISABLE_MIN_ENDSTOPS

// For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1
#define X_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0
#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders

// Disables axis when it's not being used.
#define DISABLE_X false
#define DISABLE_Y false
#define DISABLE_Z false
#define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_EXTRUDER true //disable only inactive extruders and keep active extruder enabled

#define INVERT_X_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR 1

#define min_software_endstops true // If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS.
#define max_software_endstops true // If true, axis won't move to coordinates greater than the defined lengths below.

// Travel limits after homing
#define X_MAX_POS 140
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 140
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 140
#define Z_MIN_POS 0

//Manual homing switch locations:
// For deltabots this means top and center of the Cartesian print volume.
#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0
//#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 402 // For delta: Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing.

//// MOVEMENT SETTINGS
#define NUM_AXIS 4 // The axis order in all axis related arrays is X, Y, Z, E
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {40*60, 40*60, 5*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)

// default settings

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {78.4,78.4,78.4,120} // default steps per unit for Ultimaker
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {200, 200, 40, 25} // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {6000,6000,4000,4000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for Skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.

#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for retracts

// Offset of the extruders (uncomment if using more than one and relying on firmware to position when changing).
// The offset has to be X=0, Y=0 for the extruder 0 hotend (default extruder).
// For the other hotends it is their distance from the extruder 0 hotend.
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X {0.0, 20.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 5.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis

// The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instantaneously)
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK 35.0 // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.0 // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_EJERK 3.0 // (mm/sec)

changfrancis
Posts: 55
Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2010 7:43 am

Re: Conversion of UP! to Reprap Electronics

Post by changfrancis » Sun Jan 11, 2015 9:26 am

Current setup.

Bowden with E3D V6 extruder.
Ramps 1.4 with marlin latest firmware, downloaded in Dec 14.
All heat cartridge change to 12V~40W, as the original UP one requires 19V or higher(I cant get the original one to heat up fast enough).
Filament E-Sun 1.75 from hobbyking.com (Very very familiar to original UP filament, i use it on my original one also.)

Glass bed with "Selleys" purple coloured glue. Works very well for me (PLA and ABS), no warp up to 14cm.

John Core
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2014 2:00 am

Re: Conversion of UP! to Reprap Electronics

Post by John Core » Mon Jan 12, 2015 12:30 pm

Thank you so much for the config. You just save me a lot of headache. :D

But, I still got some problem about the home position of the axis. Is reprap home position same as UP! Plus (X at back , Y at left, Z at bottom, all pressing the endstop switch)?

and about the endstops, did you used all endstops switch as min_endstop? because base on your config, my axis won't move at all. (it said endstop hit at ...)

btw, here is my current config for the axis to move.
#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
#define MOTHERBOARD 33
#endif

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 3
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 3

// The pullups are needed if you directly connect a mechanical endswitch between the signal and ground pins.
const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS
//#define DISABLE_MIN_ENDSTOPS

#define INVERT_X_DIR false // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR true // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

// ENDSTOP SETTINGS:
// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

// The RepRapDiscount FULL GRAPHIC Smart Controller (quadratic white PCB)
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_F ... Controller
//
// ==> REMEMBER TO INSTALL U8glib to your ARDUINO library folder: http://code.google.com/p/u8glib/wiki/u8glib
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER

the rest is same as yours.

and my current ramps connection.
2015-01-11-3400.jpg
most of my parts are from taobao
2015-01-11-3400.jpg (196.92 KiB) Viewed 21008 times
2015-01-11-3403.jpg
My ramps board connection (I changed the ramps's motor pin header to JST-xh)
2015-01-11-3403.jpg (236.48 KiB) Viewed 21008 times

jeeplvr
Posts: 212
Joined: Sat Jun 08, 2013 5:26 am

Re: Conversion of UP! to Reprap Electronics

Post by jeeplvr » Mon Jan 19, 2015 1:51 am

I am doing the same with a CBD Chitu v 3.1 board. I will start my own post to log my process of getting the Mini to work. Good luck!

hoek67
Posts: 29
Joined: Tue Oct 13, 2015 11:09 pm

Re: Conversion of UP! to Reprap Electronics

Post by hoek67 » Sun Jul 24, 2016 10:40 pm

:shock: I like that someone has an alternative solution for a blown cpu and/or motherboard. I saw the replacement cost of these and freaked out ... just as much as a new machine or deposit on an upgrade.

I've done a lot of low level programming with Arduino and would do something similar but use the 32 bit 84Mhz Due.

I wanted to add a few optional status and temperature LEDs to the Up but the closed HW has put an end to that.

I already have most the parts laying around as have a few Arduinos laying around for testing various hardware and a kit for RAMPS 1.4 board.

I'm also interested if I do this in installing a Bowden extruder... from what I know this feeds the filament away from the heated end and allows for a lighter print head and keeps the stepper away from heat. Would the Bowden extruder require the 2.85/3.0mm filament as it now has to push the filament a lot further ?

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