where are you

[rhummerstone]

Hi that was quick

where is everybody I am in High Wycombe Bucks


Robert

[j45on]

I'm in Kent,with a UP! Plus

[Fred]

I'm in Reigate in Surrey.

[mrich01]

Basildon, Essex.

[mr6k]

st albans
herts

[David Riley]

Nottingham.

[daveb693]

hi all upers , im in south east london

[zefram]

Hi from Wokingham, Berkshire. Had my UP for a week now, what a great little machine, haven't turned it off yet, brilliant prints right out the box

[Robin]

Seaford Sussex. I have the 120mm Kapton tape and bottle of acetone which are both good news, but can't find a Pyrex plate, (English for 'borosilicate glass').

If I put the Kapton over the perf board I get little dimples, not a problem but if someone knows where to get the Pyrex over here I'd appreciate a heads up

[DrewPetitclerc]

can't find a Pyrex plate, (English for 'borosilicate glass').

I've been using standard picture frame glass from the local framing shop (Michael's art store) .125" thick for the last year and only cracked one last week when I hit it with the edge of the spatula (accident), I returned to the store and bought four more precut to my size and I sanded the edges myself, $8.00 US each, total $24.00, standard glass covered with Kapton tape is fine.

Regards
Drew

[eyUP]

Add yourself to the map!
http://goo.gl/maps/XswzJ

[MrMaker]

Seaford Sussex. I have the 120mm Kapton tape and bottle of acetone which are both good news, but can't find a Pyrex plate, (English for 'borosilicate glass').

If I put the Kapton over the perf board I get little dimples, not a problem but if someone knows where to get the Pyrex over here I'd appreciate a heads up

Hi Robin,

I'm not far from you in Henfield, West Sussex. I have had my printer for a little over a year. I bought it from the guy who made the promo video - mine is the one in the video. I have made quite a few mods to the printer, mostly the excellent designs by Drew Petitclerc. I used to have lots of problems with warping but since I replaced the original platform with a new MIC6 aluminium one it heats better and is much more true - the original was all over the place! I always print onto standard 2mm picture frame glass coated in kapton tape, it works a treat with ABS I haven't tried PLA yet. Incidentally I had 4 off MIC6 aluminium plates made to Drew's specification so I have spares if you are interested in buying one (at cost, I don't wish to profit from someone else's ideas!).

Lee

[Garry]

Hi. I'm from Edmonton, Alberta Canada.

i just got my UP! Plus and absolutely love it. This machine is going to open a whole massive range of possibilities.

Garry

[eyUP]

Hi Garry,
Welcome to the world of UP!
This section is for UK+Ireland but if you post a request here:
http://www.pp3dp.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=22
The Forum Admin will create a section for Canada or Alberta UP! users

[Robin]

I used to have lots of problems with warping but since I replaced the original platform with a new MIC6 aluminium one it heats better and is much more true - the original was all over the place!

Hi Lee

Some warpage seems unavoidable. I think the key is to get more heat in from below to try to stop it lifting at the corners. The moment it lifts you get very little heat transfer from below, warpage increases, you lose the open fill pattern and things get much worse PDQ. A thicker plate sounds like a good way to get the heat out to the extremities.

I am seriously tempted to pop a resistor in place of the table temperature sensor, so it thinks it is permanently at 100degC, then replace the table heater with something altogether jucier running directly off the mains. The 180W power supply really is not up to the job, my table takes 6 minutes to get up to temperature and I'm thinking 200 - 400W could hurry things along nicely and let me experiment with higher temperatures

best

Robin

[Garry]

Hi Garry,
Welcome to the world of UP!
This section is for UK+Ireland but if you post a request here:
http://www.pp3dp.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=22
The Forum Admin will create a section for Canada or Alberta UP! users

Oh no, my first post and I put it in the wrong section! Oops!

I've learned a lot from this forum just from the reading I've done in a few days and hope to implement some of the very good modifications people have posted here.

Best regards,

Garry

[Garry]

Incidentally I had 4 off MIC6 aluminium plates made to Drew's specification so I have spares if you are interested in buying one (at cost, I don't wish to profit from someone else's ideas!).

Lee

Hi MrMaker, if you happen to read this, I would be interested in the aluminum plate you mention. But I'm not sure how to contact you? I looked for a way to send a PM but was not able to do so. Thank you. Garry

[wackojacko]

What I do is put the glove over the platform during preheating (gloves keep my hands warm in winter , wait for the temperature to get to 105c, remove the winter warmer, then I let the UP Plus run wild. Also you must have a level platform.

[wilsonj]

Seaford Sussex. I have the 120mm Kapton tape and bottle of acetone which are both good news, but can't find a Pyrex plate, (English for 'borosilicate glass').

If I put the Kapton over the perf board I get little dimples, not a problem but if someone knows where to get the Pyrex over here I'd appreciate a heads up

Hi Robin,

This glass issue was discussed on another thread. Basically I'm not convinced "special" glass is needed. I've been using 3mm picture frame glass for many months with no issues. What causes glass to crack is a rapid temperature change. I wouldn't put a hot piece of glass under cold running water for instance. But letting it warm up slowly on the plate, and cooling doesn't seem to cause any problems. Plus I think the kapton tape would help keep the glass together if it ever did crack. It is also cheap. Costs me about $1.30 a piece.

Cheers
Jamie

[roller]

Actually what causes glass to crack is stress caused by heating or cooling in an area of the glass causing it to expand or contract more than other parts beyond the elasticity of the glass. Over time the constant heating and cooling from a centre point, even slowly, will stress the glass eventually to the point it just cracks for no reasons right above your laptop and scratches up your screen although probably better than that shard landing on my foot.

I have now lost two sheets of regular glass for no apparent reason - it's taken over 6 months of occasional printing but it has definitely been caused by the printing. Both sheets are different plain glass from different batches (they were different thicknesses). So as a matter of safety I prefer borosilicate glass now.