UP Box environment

Share your experience with UP BOX and UP BOX+
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Buster488g
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2015 7:44 am

UP Box environment

Post by Buster488g » Sun Oct 11, 2015 4:10 am

I am trouble shooting the environment that we use the UPbox in and am seeking guidance

Its a specialised community space comprising 60sq metres with the printer against a wall that gets a lot of heat through a window. In summer the room temp is well over 30C when the air-conditioning is not running. We are using all recommended filaments purchased through 3d printersystems in NZ who are brilliant with their support.

If the printer runs for a few hours we are getting about 20 percent of object printed then it happily Airprints the rest. It's extremely frustrating for us. I can print something correctly, set up for new job let it run and surprise surprise it fails.

I am beginning to loose confidence in what has been marketed as a exemplar printer if I remember the wording and am considering focussing on working with the 2 up minis we have which give far more consistent results and put this down to experience and hope it gives more consistent results I am stubborn and will persevere with it.

We have replaced the complete extruder units twice in the last 4 months to rule that out as an issue.

My theory is this

If I run the UP box during the day particularly in the afternoon the afternoon sun -(the wall faces West) is heating up the area where the UP box sits coupled with its heat when printing is causing print jobs to fail.

We are in North QLD where heat and humidity in Summer are the order of the day.

The manual seems to suggest desirable environment is 15C to 30C. We will print this week with air-conditioning running and see if things improve.

I am hoping my theory does not have any validity and I need to look further but would welcome the collective thoughts of the group.

What environment are you using if I may ask?

Kind regards

John

pp3dp.nl
Posts: 252
Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2012 6:18 pm
Location: Holland/The Netherlands

Re: UP Box environment

Post by pp3dp.nl » Sun Oct 11, 2015 4:56 pm

I would suggest to use the latest print head cover and bracket available in the spare parts folder of software 2.17, checking the white plastic cap on the gear is on tight and using OEM PP3DP/TierTime ABS filament. PLA is a bit more tricky, so can non OEM brands of ABS be some resellers sell. At least the Up Box can be a bit more tricky because of the heat and distance the filament has to travel..

I use mainly PP3DP ABS and did have some airprinting with the Box. A couple of times I just had some bad luck with the filament, the other times I printed at the max speed/layer height which has some higher possible fail rate. After I printed the new print head cover the fail rate went way down, the filament now goes in above the motor in stead of the left side at an angle (had lots more friction).

steelmans
Posts: 100
Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2015 10:18 am

Re: UP Box environment

Post by steelmans » Sun Oct 11, 2015 5:38 pm

pp3dp.nl wrote:I would suggest to use the latest print head cover and bracket available in the spare parts folder of software 2.17, checking the white plastic cap on the gear is on tight and using OEM PP3DP/TierTime ABS filament
I've not needed to change to the new print head cover yet but I was wondering does the filament tube rub against the top lid when it is printing? Seems a bit tight with the filament going in vertically.

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NAST555
Posts: 37
Joined: Tue Aug 04, 2015 6:26 am
Location: South Africa

Re: UP Box environment

Post by NAST555 » Fri Oct 16, 2015 7:50 am

I have just recently printed it out and I also had the same worries about the top clearance. It seems to all be fine once fitted and I have printed with it but would like to know what the advantage is? That the filament does not need to travel in a bit of a curve? I honestly have not had a problem with that yet. I even messed some acetone, by mistake, in the original feed on the head and it still worked just fine, if not better.

I also found the "filament guiding tube mount" file and I cannot figure out where it would be mounted? Is anyone using it?
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steelmans
Posts: 100
Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2015 10:18 am

Re: UP Box environment

Post by steelmans » Mon Oct 19, 2015 10:42 am

NAST555 wrote:I also found the "filament guiding tube mount" file and I cannot figure out where it would be mounted? Is anyone using it?
I think it is the one that is already fitted to hold the filament "pipe" right when it is loaded from the spool.

Buster488g
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2015 7:44 am

Re: UP Box environment

Post by Buster488g » Mon Oct 26, 2015 10:36 am

pp3dp.nl wrote:I would suggest to use the latest print head cover and bracket available in the spare parts folder of software 2.17, checking the white plastic cap on the gear is on tight and using OEM PP3DP/TierTime ABS filament. PLA is a bit more tricky, so can non OEM brands of ABS be some resellers sell. At least the Up Box can be a bit more tricky because of the heat and distance the filament has to travel..

I use mainly PP3DP ABS and did have some airprinting with the Box. A couple of times I just had some bad luck with the filament, the other times I printed at the max speed/layer height which has some higher possible fail rate. After I printed the new print head cover the fail rate went way down, the filament now goes in above the motor in stead of the left side at an angle (had lots more friction).
We have been using the latest print head since it was released and have only purchased tier time filament through the supplier.

Am a bit lost as to what to try now we have wasted so much filament and time with unreliable results, I am leaning towards its heat that's the issue given that the 2 up minis produce consistent results every time and the box is unsuited to our environment. We are getting good support trying to work it through but it may turn to be a negative experience for us :(

pp3dp.nl
Posts: 252
Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2012 6:18 pm
Location: Holland/The Netherlands

Re: UP Box environment

Post by pp3dp.nl » Tue Oct 27, 2015 7:10 pm

Could you also check the temperature of the nozzle and table under Maintenance with room temp? So when the machine is cold and initialized. My machine had a temp of 45 when cold, table was 21. So when printing the nozzle doesn't get warm enough and filament can jam, I also had fluctuations so errors or jams could easliy happen. It could be the flex cable or rainbow cable.

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Tiertime-Jason
Posts: 286
Joined: Mon May 05, 2014 4:31 am

Re: UP Box environment

Post by Tiertime-Jason » Wed Oct 28, 2015 5:20 am

Hello,

Sorry to hear about the experience you have with the BOX.
I assume the main problem is nozzle clogging frequently.
You may check following:
1. You may need to figure out what happened when it clogs, clogging could be due to 3 main causes, inconsistent filament diameter, clogging of nozzle (due to dirt in filament or carbonized plastic) and filament soften before entering heater unit(not enough cooling. After finding out the cause, it will be easy to solve the problem.

2. The nozzle, if it is stainless steel, try to get a brass version see if it can improve the reliability.
3. Switch spools between mini and box see what happens.
4. The internal temperature of the build chamber could reach up to 50 C at a normal room temp eg. 25C, if you think extra high temp cause the problem, try to print with the top lid open.

Buster488g
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2015 7:44 am

Re: UP Box environment

Post by Buster488g » Fri Nov 06, 2015 11:51 am

Latest update

This week I switched to a brass nozzle and have had much better success print wise. I also attached the board with 2 small clips as per the UP mini. We have had successful printing so far.

should I have stuck to a brass nozzle all the time?

I am not convinced in my case the boards seat/lock well, it's frustrating to say the least

It should be as simple as load design see how long and walk away for a product that now in Australia is close to 3K dollars wise. For that amount of money it should be the same quality as apple products, n my humble view it's far from it.

I appreciate everyone's willingness to help and welcome more suggestions.

I have ordered 2 more brass nozzles as spare these two have cost me about $500 when I take into account the waste over the last 6 weeks trying to get it right but hopefully I am on the right track now

Kind regards

John

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NAST555
Posts: 37
Joined: Tue Aug 04, 2015 6:26 am
Location: South Africa

Re: UP Box environment

Post by NAST555 » Mon Nov 09, 2015 5:05 pm

I also did not like the way that the original boards clipped in. You could tighten the screws once in was in place to try to get it level but then it was near impossible to remove the board because of the tension on them. That seems to have been my biggest problem with my box so far, the "bubbles" that are created with the board when different spots are tightened to different clearances, and is the reason why I now have a glass bed.

I have actually found that then new feeder has performed worse than the old one. I am not too sure if it is because of the direct line to the feeder gears or if the fan is cooling the filament before it is getting fed through but aftermarket filament that used to be a breeze to print with is now a bit of a struggle. I start getting incomplete prints because it stops feeding. I have not tried a brass nozzle yet but if I have the time and patience I might try to find a tap that suits it and try to manufacture my own. Perhaps the conductivity of stainless to brass could be a factor? I have always thought that stainless to stainless threads are not a great idea because galling of the threads can occur.
The distance between insanity and genius is measured only by success

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Tiertime-Jason
Posts: 286
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Re: UP Box environment

Post by Tiertime-Jason » Sat Nov 28, 2015 7:05 am

The brass one is better than stainless steel version base on my experience, when changing the stainless steel nozzle, please be very careful, as it could be very tight. If too much force applied, the feeding tube near heater block could be twisted easily and end up need to change the whole module.

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