Extruder Temp MOD

[koreandi]

Hi there,

I want to share my Hardware Mod for my UP! Mini I´ve realized so far. My intention was to be able to print PLA with the UP! Mini.

As the software setting ABS and PLA only allows two temperature settings I decided to build a Temp mod to modify the extruder temperature from 190°C to 260°C. I thought 10°C steps are enough to set the temperature. So I used a 8 step rotary-switch and coupled it with series connection of 8 resistors with each 3,6 Ohm.

IMG_5047.JPG (128.12 KiB) Viewed 16073 times

I didn´t want to load my extruder head too much. That´s why I moved the temp control to the machine housing and connected it by a wire.

IMG_5048.JPG (109.64 KiB) Viewed 16073 times

With this MOD I print every part in ABS mode and set the temperature with the switch. In a further MOD I changed the Heatbed to have the full control of the machine.

IMG_5049.JPG (114.31 KiB) Viewed 16073 times

Best greetings
Andreas

[Marcus]

Looks very nice
Fortunately I have the old UP with trimmers... But an external solution like that would be great.
Part of the magic with the UP is the reliable combination of quality oem ABS and the printer, but it really limits the possibilities.

[roller]

Nice mod Andreas. I like to keep the mod on the head as the motion in the wires will eventually fatigue them and cause a short. My 10 step mod uses a thumbwheel for this reason to keep the weight down on the head ... plus it saves me labelling as the number tells you how much temp is dropped in tens of degrees Celcius. See here ... it might gives you ideas to improve on your design or mine. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:528396

Also keep in mind this will let you drop the temp even lower ie if you set the printer to PLA you will start with a lower base (190 or 200C I forget which) and you will have 10C steps down to 120ish. I have some PLAs that like to extrude at a mere 160C. That said they only work when I use a peltier cooler to keep the feed chamber chilled.

[mr6k]

As Roller points out your cables may weaken with usage due to the continuous motion of the head.

Here is how I avoided that on an UP Plus.

extrudr temp mod cable.jpg (42.23 KiB) Viewed 16004 times

Assuming you can get at the ribbon cable nearer the base on the UP mini, you might try an "off the head" wiring solution. At this location the ribbon cable is static.
Yes, yes, I know that separating out one of the ribbon cable wires will probably void the warranty but in my case I bought my printer secondhand anyway.

I also chose to use a DIP switch to set the extruder temperature, mainly because that is what I had to hand.

cheers

Peter

[Macflame]

mr6k Have you shared your design on this board? I would like to do the same mod on my machine.

[roller]

mr6k Have you shared your design on this board? I would like to do the same mod on my machine.

You don't like my thumbwheel style? It's very easy to build and light enough to mount on the extruder yet so easy to adjust you can still easily change the temp while it's moving. Full instructions posted on thingiverse and build cost should be under $15. If you can get individual parts rather than having to buy batches you can get under $7.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:528396

[mr6k]

Hi Macflame,

Here is my mod to select extruder temperature, that does not add weight to the moving head and can be switched during operation.
I used a cheap 8 switch DIP I had a load in a box of bits, so chose the colour coded type. The UK RS part number is 337-560 (Manufacturer ERG, their part number ED57657) Price about £3.60, An even cheaper type with just white switches is RS 639-3049 (manufacturer TE Connectivity, their part number is ADE0804).Price about £0.69.
The various resistors I had lying around but should be available for little money. I chose standard values. The resistor do not dissipate any significant power so can be as small as you like.

Switch and resistors were mounted on small piece of Veroboard strip.

I printed a very simple bracket, pushed the switch through the slot then glued the board to the bracket.

Double sided taped to the top rear of my UP +.

Found one of the thermistor (PT100) wires in the ribbon cable (Black on mine maybe different on other printers). Carefully slit it either side by about 25mm. Cut it in the middle and attached using wires to switch as shown in circuit.

The only caution in use is to ensure at least one switch is on, and although it has not happened to me, I guess if you switch between very large temp differences during operation the software may report an over or under temp fault. However as it is easy to keep changing the switches even with the head running, you should be able to step through slower to prevent this happening. Of course you could replace the DIP switch with any other type of suitable switch, rotary thumbwheel or whatever.

cheers

Peter

[roller]

Yeah, it's that whole slicing up the original cables that bothers me the most.

[mr6k]

Roller,
slicing out the one wire on this cable is no great diffculty. A small sharp knife through the insulation on either side of the wire without cutting down into the wire is quite possible with care. Standard practice in a lot of electronic projects. I would assume that if you have the capability to make the switch wiring and solder it all then you probably have the patience and skill to seperate out the wire from the ribbon cable
However with the latest .dll software mod for temperature, it could be argued that all these hardware mods are now redundent.
cheers

Peter

[roller]

I just don't like slicing at all ... it's far more warranty friendly for the newcomers who still have one. I have found the dll to have issues so far so still relying on the mod sadly.

[Macflame]

That is great Peter! Many thanks for sharing.

[mrgibbon]

Hi koreandi. What temp at the end did your PLA print at?

Thanks