Printing error

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jmgiacalone
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Printing error

Post by jmgiacalone » Wed Oct 27, 2010 6:59 pm

I have only had the printer 2 days, so I may be doing something wrong, but I have noticed a couple of times the printer stopping during
laying down of the raft.

The first time it happened, I had set the print to 0.4mm resolution, having already printed at 0.35mm. Worried that maybe there was a bug in the software for 0.4mm resolution, I reset the printer to 0.35mm and the following few prints were fine.

Then during another print the printer stopped again during printing of the raft. This time I noticed in the bottom right hand corner of the UP software (v1.08), greyed out in the status bar the following message:
"Nozzle too cool"

The remaining print time counter was still going, but the printer was stopped. I waited hoping that this would be temporary, but after 10mins I had to abort the print as the printer showed no signs of restarting.

I scraped off the raft and tried to print again. This time, no error.

Has anyone else experienced this phenomenon?

Thanks,
jmg.
jmgiacalone
www.emakershop.com

cyberbadger
Posts:125
Joined:Sun Sep 12, 2010 12:26 am

Re: Printing error

Post by cyberbadger » Wed Oct 27, 2010 8:16 pm

jmgiacalone,

I have not had this problem, but I had a thought...

When it said nozzel too cool, could you see the nozzel temperature in the Maintain screen?

Did you make sure all connectors to the nozzel head were snug?

-cyberbadger

jmgiacalone
Posts:26
Joined:Mon Oct 25, 2010 10:24 am

Re: Printing error

Post by jmgiacalone » Fri Oct 29, 2010 8:57 pm

Once the print has started, the temperature values in the maintain screen are no longer updated.
jmgiacalone
www.emakershop.com

TTT험ทดสอบ
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Re: Printing error

Post by TTT험ทดสอบ » Sat Oct 30, 2010 7:58 am

hi jmg,

Maybe the heater or temperature sensor or wire connection have errors.

Please connect the 14 pin plug of extruder again. Please contact with us if the error still appear.

Darkhouse

-soapy-
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Re: Printing error

Post by -soapy- » Sun Oct 31, 2010 3:42 pm

I get this as well - it's fine until it actually starts the print, then it says 0 for both nozzle and platform temps.

Chris.e
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Re: Printing error

Post by Chris.e » Sun Oct 31, 2010 5:07 pm

Same here, I thought it was meant to be like this? That the printer was to busy printing to report the temp to the computer.

Linkreincarnate
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Re: Printing error

Post by Linkreincarnate » Tue Nov 02, 2010 3:17 am

My printer doesn't report temp after it's started printing either.

-soapy-
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Re: Printing error

Post by -soapy- » Tue Nov 16, 2010 11:27 pm

I realised last night, but if I go to the screen to see the temperature of the two parts, it stops the heating! I'm sure it didn't do this before it got cold, but I might be getting confused.

Chris.e
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Re: Printing error

Post by Chris.e » Mon Dec 20, 2010 8:40 pm

jmgiacalone, did you ever get that "nozzle too cool" again?
I just got it for first time..mid print :(

-soapy-
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Re: Printing error

Post by -soapy- » Mon Dec 20, 2010 11:45 pm

Try the connector re-seat trick I worked out before you do anything else.

Just take the platform off, then the cover of the arm. You will see the leads from the platform go along the channel and into the body, and have 2 connectors right by each other just before it does. Unplug, re-plug, then add a little tape, and see how it works then. That was why I was getting random temperature errors on mine.

It seems the machine "knows" when the lead is unplugged or whatever, as it also mis-reports the nozzle temperature, and hence things stop when it decides it is too cold.

Chris.e
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Re: Printing error

Post by Chris.e » Tue Dec 21, 2010 7:31 am

I will try that once I get home today, I see that the temp probe works, If I hold the heater block with my hands the temp rises as it should. Although the heater doesn't seem to work. If I measure with my voltmeter on the contact in the extruder box I get 20V when the heater should be running. The resistance between the heater cables is 110 Ohm which sounds a bit too high?

trebuchet03
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Re: Printing error

Post by trebuchet03 » Tue Dec 21, 2010 3:35 pm

110ohms is way too high...

Around 25C, you should read around 8ohms.

Could still be a connectivity issue despite getting a voltage reading....

Did you measure the resistance with the machine running? If yes... Turn the machine off and remove the print head connector. Measure resistance over pin 1 and pin 14 (leftmost pins when facing the printer). You can also measure pins 2 and 13 (they're also heater +/-).

If that still measures high resistance, something is likely wrong with your heater. You could try removing the connector which has some hot melt on it to hold it in place, but I doubt that's the problem if your thermistor is functional.


If you (or anyone else) doesn't know - do not run the machine with the connector unplugged for risk of damage to the stepper driver (unless someone has determined the circuit used is safe).
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saracriss
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Re: Printing error

Post by saracriss » Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:40 am

"Try the connector re-seat trick I worked out before you do anything else.

Just take the platform off, then the cover of the arm. You will see the leads from the platform go along the channel and into the body, and have 2 connectors right by each other just before it does. Unplug, re-plug, then add a little tape, and see how it works then. That was why I was getting random temperature errors on mine.

It seems the machine "knows" when the lead is unplugged or whatever, as it also mis-reports the nozzle temperature, and hence things stop when it decides it is too cold."

thanks for the detailed information "soapy" .....i hope this could be better understandable than all other helps

Chris.e
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Re: Printing error

Post by Chris.e » Wed Jan 05, 2011 8:34 am

An update to my adventures I found that the heater connection had come loose inside the PTFE tubing. Wasn't really visible but once I detached the heater one of the cables just fell out. And measuring the resistance now gets me 7ohms that sounds more reasonable. It seems pretty hard to use normal solder to solder the connection back, I suspect hard solder or a crimp termination would be better.

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