Printing raftless for smoth surface Problem starting

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fdew
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Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:51 am

Printing raftless for smoth surface Problem starting

Post by fdew » Thu Oct 03, 2013 7:11 pm

Hi. New guy here so I may need more help then normal.

I just bought a Afina H series so I hope this is the right forum.

I needed to print a number of parts that start with a flat surface, therefor it seems a raft would not be needed and if I started on something smooth like 3M painters tape I would be all set. The problem is the filament would not stick to the tape. It just formed a lose "Yarn ball" I didn't want to use the perf board because I didn't want the marks from the holes.

I have read about Kapton tape but have no experience. Recommendations, tricks, help all appreciated.

Thanks

BTW I tried a search on raft and raftless and it wont search those words.

Frank DeWitt

LonV
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Re: Printing raftless for smoth surface Problem starting

Post by LonV » Thu Oct 03, 2013 11:25 pm

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Last edited by LonV on Thu Oct 03, 2013 11:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

mr6k
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Re: Printing raftless for smoth surface Problem starting

Post by mr6k » Thu Oct 03, 2013 11:49 pm

I have always used Kapton Tape. ABS sticks to it very well.

Not sure why anyone would recommend an adhesive on it, unless they had not cleaned it the first time around with acetone or MEK. This is very important. As supplied, a roll of kapton tape has a microscopic layer of release agent on its surface, so it does not stick to itself on the reel. Acetone or MEK will remove this.

After each print just wipe with Acetone or MEK to get a good adhesion surface. For super adhesion soak a cloth in Acetone/MEK, wipe it across an old "lump" of ABS and then wipe onto the Kapton. This adds a fine ABS layer to the Kapton tape.

Kapton tape stuck over the aluminum UP plate or glass will give a flat non raft surface and good adhesion. Removing the print is relatively easy if you print in a corner with a bit of clearance under which you can get some leverage with a knife edge. If areas of the kapton lifts from the plate or glass it can usually be pressed back down. If a bubble of air gets trapped in the lifted area, just prick the bubble to release the air and flatten down the tape.

I get around 10-20 prints or more from each layer of tape.

cheers

Peter

fdew
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Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:51 am

Re: Printing raftless for smoth surface Problem starting

Post by fdew » Fri Oct 04, 2013 3:44 am

Thanks for the info on Kapton tape. I am going to try that, and the glass and glue method I found in another thread. As for the not sticking to start, I found out that the problem was ME. Some how the nozzle height was way to big. (I now will check it every time I turn on the printer.) I reset it, re checked the leveling, and got a good raft-less part on the blue 3M painters tape. I will keep reading and trying things and learning.

Thanks again.

Frank

roller
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Re: Printing raftless for smoth surface Problem starting

Post by roller » Fri Oct 04, 2013 11:24 am

3M Painters tape is an ideal printing surface and widely used BUT only for PLA. For ABS Kapton tape or plain glass work well as they release the print when cooled.

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JuliaDee
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Re: Printing raftless for smoth surface Problem starting

Post by JuliaDee » Sat Oct 05, 2013 2:04 am

There are still pros to using a raft even for parts with flat bottoms. You get an even, matte finish, bed leveling is less critical, adhesion can be better (especially with perfboard, and especially with parts that have small contact areas at their bottoms), and the bottom edges of your part(s) will be clean and free of flash. Raftless is great when printing a lot of small parts where the time and material to print the raft approach those of the part(s). For anything else I like rafts, even if some people think they're for wusses :)

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DrewPetitclerc
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Re: Printing raftless for smoth surface Problem starting

Post by DrewPetitclerc » Sun Oct 06, 2013 4:31 am

JuliaDee wrote: For anything else I like rafts, even if some people think they're for wusses :)
I would never call anyone that, especially not you Julia, I would only state that it is a waste of material for those on a budget or where the cost of material is high for the "hobbyist"
regards
Drew
Drew Petitclerc
Petitclerc Designs
Owner/Senior Principal Designer, prototype, tooling and test equipment design and 3D printing
http://flash-graphics.deviantart.com/
http://www.thingiverse.com/DrewPetitclerc

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