Taulman 618-1.75mm Co-Polymer

[changfrancis]

I tried printing some small details object but failed. Anyone have any idea what is the print setting ? 0.20mm/Normal ? there is alot of noodle of taulman

As for temperature mod I use a 16.7ohm resistor(measured). at 12ohm seem to boil the taulman, it give alot of popping sound when printing. Seem to work for my at 16ohms, by 18 ohms the extruder is just too cold to even push the taulman out.

[D3rax]

Whow 16 ohm? I stopped at 8 ohm because the strenght of the print was about the same as ABS. I now use a 6 ohm resistor for prints with complex support. This gives strong prints and with the support settings set to minimal the support is removable. Parts with little support I print at the regular 260 degrees, which gives really strong prints.

The main goal for me for for using nylon is creating strong functional parts where strenght is the important factor.

It is also very important to keep the nylon dry. I never leave it on the printer spool and keep it in a closed box with a moistabsorber in it.

[JuliaDee]

I tried printing some small details object but failed. Anyone have any idea what is the print setting ? 0.20mm/Normal ? there is alot of noodle of taulman

As for temperature mod I use a 16.7ohm resistor(measured). at 12ohm seem to boil the taulman, it give alot of popping sound when printing. Seem to work for my at 16ohms, by 18 ohms the extruder is just too cold to even push the taulman out.

Maybe what you thought was "boiling" of the nylon was just puffs of steam from the moisture that gets absorbed by the plastic, especially if you are in a humid climate.

julia

[wilsonj]

I agree 16 ohm seems very low. You need to be around 240-250C for best layer adhesion. (~8ohm)

Here's a sample of what I have been printing in nylon. They are handles for air seeders.

[JuliaDee]

I think the Octave temp switch uses 11 Ohms. Results have been good but I haven't tried other values.

[Garry]

Just made my first attempt with Taulman. This stuff is wicked. I bought the nylon from a supplier in Canada and don't have the Garolite printer plate yet but that wasn't going to stop me from trying. I expected the first print to be a major fail - and it was a small fail - but I learned.

First I printed directly on to the polycarbonate sheet, raftless, with the stock wind barrier completely open. It was clear that parts of the print were lifting from the PC sheet. When done I abused the part and caused it to delaminate. Obviously because the wind barrier was open.

Next I covered the PC sheet with the green painters tape (don't have blue) thinking this might be a bit better. It was. The nylon stuck to it well. But the tape lifted from the PC sheet. So fail two. I had closed the wind barrier completely and delamintion is not a problem - the layers are well fused. The part is very strong. Very.

Next I will try printing on the perfboard. I have a Garolite plate on order so hope that works well.

But this Taulman is great!

[JuliaDee]

Adhesion of the nylon is somewhat mysterious and unpredictable. I'm using garolite and sometimes my first one or two prints lift badly even after an acetone wipe of the platform. But it seems that as the day goes on I get better and better adhesion, until I get to the point where I can't even scrape the raft completely off the plate! Maybe it's the plate getting warm, or maybe it's a residual film of well-adhered nylon gradually building up on the plate, I dunno. But once it starts sticking well, there are no adhesion problems at all.

[DrewPetitclerc]

I gave one side of the garolite plate a lite sanding in two opposing directions and that took care of adhesion.
Now if I can get the temperature right so that it does not string so much, I've tried 220c but may have to go lower.

[Liutauras]

Hi all, I'm using 6 ohm correction in Plus and standard printing plate, 0,15mm layers, "normal" mode. No fume, very strong and flexible parts, raft and support goes off easy

[MiguelKendrick]

So your looking for a UK distributor? I highly suggest 3d2print.net for you. Taulman 618 and 645 are still in stock. Transit times are reached within 1-3 days for customers within Europe.

[ahntlia]

I have bought the package from octave.
I have been testing nylon 618, working well but suddenly the extruder didn't want to extrude anymore.
Unglogged it an it just prints around 10 layers and it stops extruding again. Any hint?

I have the settings
0.2 layer height fine
236°C
Up mini

[D3rax]

Try it at 245 or 260.

[GeoM528]

Anyone here tried both Nylon 618 and 645 filaments? I’m quite puzzled between the two. Taulman Bridge is what my colleagues suggested. My first order is about to arrive next week. I’m so excited to try it for home furniture replacement. I’ll just keep you posted, mates!

[wilsonj]

I found 618 and 645 both print fine on the UP, but need around 245-255C. The 645 nylon is stronger than the 618, and also clear. Never had much luck with bridge on the UP unfortunately.

[amd-tec]

Just made some testprint with Taulman 618.
Started with abs and after printing the raft and base paused (layer 5) changed to nylon and resumed printing.
Works pretty well, recommend to test if you have some lifting problems with nylon.

[DrewPetitclerc]

I gave up on the garrolite plate a long time ago.
I use glass and the Elmers water soluble glue stick to build on, nylon likes it a lot, no lifting even when I print large flat areas like:
http://www.myminifactory.com/object/hik ... gopro-4796
http://www.myminifactory.com/object/che ... gopro-4795

Regards
Drew

[roller]

I gave up on the garrolite plate a long time ago.
I use glass and the Elmers water soluble glue stick to build on, nylon likes it a lot, no lifting even when I print large flat areas like:
http://www.myminifactory.com/object/hik ... gopro-4796
http://www.myminifactory.com/object/che ... gopro-4795

Thanks Drew ... Is that on a heated or unheated bed?

[DrewPetitclerc]

Interesting question.
All my mods have one thing in common, I always use the ABS setting in the UP software so my build plate is always heating up to 100c.

I have only been chasing two dragons and that is the extruder temp and build plate adhesion.

I have the Art Taylor temp control mod.
I inject compressed cool air on the teeth before they come into contact with the plastic.
I have placed a 1mm insulator on the face of the hot extruder motor that would normally come into contact with the plastic before the gear teeth.
I switched to a Recreus barrel for the extruder, it is lined with high temp nylon with PTFE so the PLA slides right through.

All ABS and PLA's I use glass covered in "BuildTak".

Nylon, laywoods and polycarbonate I use a glass covered with water soluble glue stick.

Regards
Drew