Best setting for object strength ?

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wilsonj
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Best setting for object strength ?

Post by wilsonj » Wed Mar 28, 2012 8:43 pm

What do people find gives the best strength for a functional part?

I've noticed that larger layer thickness seems to be stronger in the Z axis.

Also making the model solid gives lots of strength.

How about print speed ? Fast lays down the layers quicker, so they have less time to cool, and therefore stick to each other better ?
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Jamie
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DrewPetitclerc
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Re: Best setting for object strength ?

Post by DrewPetitclerc » Thu Mar 29, 2012 5:53 am

If I need a part to be its strongest, layer thickness has not been an issue, I drop MEK into the top print surface of a solid part where the weave is somewhat porus and let dry fully, this melts the inner traces forming a stronger bond.
Caution, :geek: DO NOT play loose with this stuff, MEK is dangerous if you get it on you or inhale fumes IT WILL BE VERY BAD, so be careful, I'm warning you! :shock:
Drew Petitclerc
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wilsonj
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Re: Best setting for object strength ?

Post by wilsonj » Thu Mar 29, 2012 7:18 am

Thanks again Drew.

I'm a farmer, and use MEK as primer on pipes, although in my state it is only available dyed. Not hard to source pure MEK though. I agree, not the stuff to use in confined spaces.
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Jamie
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-soapy-
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Re: Best setting for object strength ?

Post by -soapy- » Tue Apr 03, 2012 5:07 pm

Cyanoacrylate flooding will make it bulletproof.

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wilsonj
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Re: Best setting for object strength ?

Post by wilsonj » Wed Apr 04, 2012 6:11 am

soapy do you use kicker to fast set the cyno ? I find it doesn't wick in and dry real quick.

Interestingly I have been experimenting with acetone lately, and tried dunking a part for 10-15 seconds, then letting it dry. The funny thing is it never went hard again! and was very pliable, even after an hour in the sun. So thats NOT the way to strengthen parts. hehehe
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Jamie
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mr6k
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Re: Best setting for object strength ?

Post by mr6k » Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:44 am

Are you sure that was ABS you dunked in the actetone? I use MEK and find after a dunk of 30 seconds the ABS hardens completely within a few hours. Dunk PLA in MEK and it does not dissolve. After a while it goes sort of floppy and does not recover.
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Peter

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wackojacko
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Re: Best setting for object strength ?

Post by wackojacko » Wed Apr 04, 2012 6:40 pm

MEK

As a welding agent

As butanone dissolves polystyrene, it is sold as "polystyrene cement" for use in connecting together parts of scale model kits. Though often considered an adhesive, it is actually functioning as a welding agent in this context
Bruce
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wilsonj
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Re: Best setting for object strength ?

Post by wilsonj » Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:24 pm

Yes it was the UP ABS that came with the printer. Went all soft and weird.

I'll get some MEK and try that next.
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Jamie
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-soapy-
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Re: Best setting for object strength ?

Post by -soapy- » Mon Apr 09, 2012 11:27 pm

Wilson,

No, I just buy the cheap £ store stuff with about 12 tubes per pack, cut one open and pour it on in quantity. It wicks in fine, in my experience - it is "wetter" and less viscous than water.

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wilsonj
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Re: Best setting for object strength ?

Post by wilsonj » Wed Apr 11, 2012 5:45 am

Thanks soapy, I'll try that. Perhaps it just needs patience!? :D
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Jamie
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Garry
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Re: Best setting for object strength ?

Post by Garry » Wed Feb 20, 2013 8:02 pm

Night:
I just tried the acetone and cyanoacrylate (cheap eBay product). I don't have MEK - yet. Both initial result were very good. Both wicked in amazingly well. I think one would need to learn the optimal rate of application by some trial and error because I am assuming that if the liquid is not dispensed quickly enough the combination would begin to solidify before it reached the very deepest areas of the part? Obviously this would mean a part not fully treated. So I want to flood it from the start and ease up at the end. Further, if the part was too deep maybe drilling small holes through the surface of the most sealed end would allow placement of some liquid from a second end. This could be tedious but might work in cases where strength was critical.

Next Morning:
I tested the parts and can confirm the value line ABS from Afinia that I treated with acetone has gone soft just like what happened to wilsonj. I won't use acetone again for this purpose. Will get MEK. The part with the cyanoacrylate seems rock hard. Nice. So for now it's gonna be the cyanoacrylate.
wilsonj wrote:Interestingly I have been experimenting with acetone lately, and tried dunking a part for 10-15 seconds, then letting it dry. The funny thing is it never went hard again! and was very pliable, even after an hour in the sun.

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wilsonj
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Re: Best setting for object strength ?

Post by wilsonj » Wed Feb 20, 2013 9:06 pm

Garry wrote:Night:
I just tried the acetone and cyanoacrylate (cheap eBay product). I don't have MEK - yet. Both initial result were very good. Both wicked in amazingly well. I think one would need to learn the optimal rate of application by some trial and error because I am assuming that if the liquid is not dispensed quickly enough the combination would begin to solidify before it reached the very deepest areas of the part? Obviously this would mean a part not fully treated. So I want to flood it from the start and ease up at the end. Further, if the part was too deep maybe drilling small holes through the surface of the most sealed end would allow placement of some liquid from a second end. This could be tedious but might work in cases where strength was critical.

Next Morning:
I tested the parts and can confirm the value line ABS from Afinia that I treated with acetone has gone soft just like what happened to wilsonj. I won't use acetone again for this purpose. Will get MEK. The part with the cyanoacrylate seems rock hard. Nice. So for now it's gonna be the cyanoacrylate.
wilsonj wrote:Interestingly I have been experimenting with acetone lately, and tried dunking a part for 10-15 seconds, then letting it dry. The funny thing is it never went hard again! and was very pliable, even after an hour in the sun.
Actually if you leave the part for about 3 days it will "dry out" and become quite hard.
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Jamie
3DPrinterGear.com.au

Garry
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Re: Best setting for object strength ?

Post by Garry » Wed Feb 20, 2013 10:02 pm

wilsonj wrote:Actually if you leave the part for about 3 days it will "dry out" and become quite hard.
Cool. I will give it more time. Thanks!

juancr
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Re: Best setting for object strength ?

Post by juancr » Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:22 am

Hi!
I you deep in acetone and part become soft, you shouldn't put in under sun, just on fresh air. More time in acetone more time to become hard again.
But I have to say: for me the most important is printing the part oriented correctly when possible.
Regards,
JuanCR
(You should know I do my best with my written english ;-) )

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