Up! Plus 2 Warping Problem

[car3less]

I understood I should make a case for the printer to stop ABS objects warping. This is a real minus for it.
I didn't have time to do that yet, but I tried a small experiment with a medallion from my new jewelry collection.

The medallion in the pictures has 7 cm diameter (small parts 1 mm). It warped 2 times. In some places looks like burnt.
Third time, I placed it on the pad closer to the heat source and came out very good and very detailed. The printer is amazing even, but sometimes this warping thing really annoys me...

[roller]

This is the nature of ABS .. it shrinks as it cools. PLA might suit you better but that introduces other difficulties.

For such a small print consider a "micro enclosure" ... ie. print an enclosure with your part. Printing a ring around your print but just outside it and a little bit higher than your final print will waste some filament but keep the microclimate around your print hotter for longer allowing it to cool slower and harden less.

[car3less]

Thank you for the advice. I will try to do that.

I have the original ABS that came with the printer and another ABS spool which I bought.
I discovered that only the first one has warping problems for this kind of small objects. While the second one gives me perfect objects.
I also tried PLA, but the final objects look a little bad...

[roller]

I gave some other advice in the other thread (regarding whether Up filament has changed) about getting a good bond for the filament - check that out. Some of the Plus 2's set their start height a little high so you might not be getting the best bonding on yout first layers.

[josejuako]

Car3less put balsa or do in 2 parts your model and later bond it , if you work on glass surfice and Elmer glue like Drew . Or other idea is print still 90 grades whit support. To best prints you need head control temperature and you can work whit any plastic .

Regards

Josejuako

[mb20music]

Keeping the wind barrier door closed will reduce or eliminate warping on larger prints.

[roller]

Facepalm, I always forget to recommend that. With the latest releases of software I never ever open the wind barrier anymore so I forget it's there!

[JuliaDee]

Lots of good advice in this thread. Enclosure is critical for reducing warpage, even if it's just a cardboard box to start with. Give plenty of time for the bed to heat up, and let the temperature inside the enclosure come up to 35C or more. Let your part(s) cool thoroughly before removing from the printer and before removing from the perfboard. And as roller mentioned, make sure your first layer is well-smooshed into the perfboard for adequate adhesion. For third-party ABS a temperature control is very useful, even critical. There are threads here on how to build one, and several online retailers offer plug-and-play switches ready to go.

The most important things are to observe carefully what's happening, and don't give up! You will find the right combination if you are patient. Every part is different. Best of luck!

julia

[josejuako]

This is the recommended Drew temperature modifier , I use it now with good results, it's a complete whit a nice display .

Keeping the wind barrier door closed will reduce or eliminate warping on larger prints.

I never ever open the wind barrier anymore so I forget it's there!

The most important things are to observe carefully what's happening, and don't give up! You will find the right combination if you are patient. Every part is different. Best of luck!

julia

http://www2.artaylor.co.uk/store/index. ... duct_id=55


Jose

[roller]

Personally I beleive this mod is overkill. You can get the same results with my mod (or any other simple multi-resistive mod) and save yourself a lot of money (about $40 vs $120 for Art's mod). They are very easy to make yourself (always happy to walk people through it) if you are ok (dont need to be great) with a soldering iron and a few of us make them up affordably for those that can't.

Art's mod is certainly well made and reasonable value for the type of design it is ... but at the end of the day it's not going to produce any better prints than a thumbwheel or rotary switch resistive mod. The single exception is if you want to overheat your extruder for Polycarbonate printing. That said I will be working on an alternate design for this in the Summer (Southern hemispehere) break.

[josejuako]

Roller is true, only that we talk about here on the temperatures and Richard Taylor device you find read all temperatures , ambient temperature , the temperature you want to put and the real work temperature . To me is very very good observation all in one and all functions are some expensive .


Jose

[roller]

Well it only goes -70C ... I use -90C all the time for PLA prints in ABS mode to get the different retract settings. -70C is too hot fo rmy purposes. As for the other temp measurements I can't think of any reason I need a measurement for those. Humidity would be handy but that's about it.

[josejuako]

I just hope Artaylor sell your device many times more, because I think a good one I am happy with his work and how well it works, really PLA is not very stable plastic so I do not use it if I agree recycling and is one more factor to use temperature control devices, the screen is a great guide and allows us to give readings and bearings do immediately allowing databases like Drew has shown us. As moisture is a matter of buying a quality plastic and today we have several providers on the market and the other will have to improve or else they will be manufacturing market. Anyway I thank you your words and apologize my differences.

Jose

[car3less]

I considered the enclosure, but it's a little harder to operate with the printer like that. And a cardboard box would have been a real problem to supervise the printer while working.
I arranged the height of the extruder and it started to be bonded too well. If ABS became hard to remove, PLA became impossible. )
I usually alternate them depending on what the customer needs.
A mod for temperature control seems like a nice idea, but I am not so experienced with choosing temperatures for printing. I will see