How can you say that!? It's completely different! The spool holder is on the right.

LonV wrote:I like gratuitous self promotion. How much is shipping to the US?

PM sent!

WARNING! Gratuitous self promotion ahead. This also doesn't take up much bench space, knock things off your table or potentially over heat your electronics. It does however cost more. http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo209/wilsonjpr/IMG_5599b_zpse12aa445.jpg [/URL] These are now black though, not ...

I'd suggest not printing in the kitchen to start with.

ikumajp wrote:hmm,
I was wondering why no one just use a potentiometer?
Do you think it'll work?

Yes it will work, but it is harder to get repeatable accurate settings.

A customer of mine also had good success with the gecko like board, and no need to unplug the bed.

HAHA I think we need pictures!

My enclosure usually heats to around 40-45C. I've found this works extremely well in reducing warp on large parts.

Cheers
Jamie

Nice work Ktronik!!

I'll try 200 on ABS settings and compare again. Should be interesting as that will show the possible retract difference between the two. But I was pretty happy with 230, except for the raft removal, or lack there of.

Looks like we are all on the bandwagon!

Julia, have you tried it at 190C ? That seems rather low IMO. Would be great if it worked though, as the ABS setting really welds the raft on, where the PLA setting doesn't.

ColorFabb of course!

Hi David, but did the roll have plastic wrapped around it also ?

The reason I ask is that for a short time the supplier was using a plastic wrap that caused the filament to go brittle.

you say 'gecko like'...will I have the same 'gecko like' issues with heat, as I did the gecko board?? what is different to your boards?? as geco did not stick with no heat...to much heat wrapped the board...the sweet spot as hard to get... thoughts?? K I believe my material is exactly the same as t...

I thought I would share a recent print I did on my UP Plus in PLA. The picture on the left was printed with the stock PLA setting (200C) The one on the right was printed using the ABS setting but with a resistor dropping the temp down to around 230C. Could probably do with a little more air flow to ...

David, was the roll wrapped in clear plastic ?

The problem with testing on the UP is that you can't turn the bed off, without fiddling with resistors/plugs. So for the UP I suggest a piece of cardboard to help insulate the board from the heated bed. That works fine.

It does on my makerbot clone. Can't try it easily on the UP of course.

I've been testing these for a while, with good results for both ABS and PLA. Also a great alternative to glass for raftless printing.

http://www.3dprintergear.com.au/Plastic ... plpbed.htm

Hi Julia,

I have and sell HIPS. I find it prints quite similar to that of ABS, but at least the stuff I have, is quite a bit weaker. I saw no advantage to using it on a single head printer, apart from maybe the lack of smell.

Cheers
Jamie