I never cry after bad quality third-party filament, because I only buy good quality third-party filament. I only cry over a marginal extruder design that doesn't grip filament well, is highly intolerant of small variations in filament diameter, and melts filament in the feeder. There are so many fa...

JuliaDee wrote:Awesome, we've been waiting so long! This must be why all posts having to do with Zortrax were recently removed from this forum

Hmmm that's not really good.

New machine looks nice. Fully enclosed by the looks.

Many have had success with ColorFabb PLA/PHA filaments on the UP. Have you tried this ?

Hi Julia,

I agree, the UltraT is nice stuff, but I also only have it in the ivory colour. I have also been using quite a bit of the Z-ABS on the UP with really good success too.

Ouch! It's not that bad. At least it uses the UP software, and for the money it is hard to beat.

Or get both! The two for one deal ends at the end of this month.

No probs, glad to have helped.

Hi Deet, did you end up getting a board ok ?

psst, 3mm thick build plates doesn't work on the mini. Unless you remove the heat bed and install a thinner washer to replace the little L shaped mounting bracket. I don't think Deet wants to do that with a brand new UP mini :? Cutting PMMA or PC works but NOT thicker than 2mm. Preferably 1.5mm thi...

Bummer!

If you can cut a piece of 3mm acrylic 140x140 that will do the trick. Otherwise you might find one in the post tomorrow....

618 will print fine on the perfboard with a raft, but if you want to do raftless printing you will need a garolite plate. I've found 618 prints best at about 240-250C, provided it is nice and dry. T-glase will print from 230-250C without much problem, but it will be difficult to remove rafts and sup...

Yes you can disconnect your PC once the file has been uploaded to the UP. It has on board memory.

As a bonus you can reprint the last print by pressing the initialize button twice quickly.

Thanks for the experience. How often do we have to replace the BuildTak? That is yet to be seen, and will depend a bit on how you treat it, but my guess would be 50+ prints and maybe over 100. Certainly far more durable than kapton, where I am lucky to get more than a couple before I gouge it with ...

Thanks for the replies. So, it is the best currently available one to reduce warping when printing using ABS? What about if I print using Nylon? Is BuildTak better than Borosilicate glass and Kapton Tape when using ABS/Nylon? I'm going to say yes. For a few reasons. 1. Buildtak is far easier to app...

Hi Rene,

I've managed to print with Soft PLA on the standard extruder setup, but not much else I'm afraid. Certainly Filaflex or Ninjaflex won't print without modifications.

Try a different brand of glue stick. Glues aint glues.

I stuck a roll of 618 in the oven at 60C for 2 hours and it did wonders for the print quality.[/quote]

Yeah but how did it work out with your muffins [/quote]

Unfortunately they came out all stringy!

Back to original topic ... nylon is a moisture magnet and "saturated" filaments sometimes have big issues adhering. Maybe it needs a little drying. Any good tips on drying Nylon and on how to keep it dry? I stuck a roll of 618 in the oven at 60C for 2 hours and it did wonders for the print quality.

The suggested temp for T-Glass is 212C, But I've always printed it at higher temps (230-245C).

Did you measure the diameter of your filament ? Is it 1.75 ? If it isn't then that will most likely be your problem.

Did you change the toothed pulley? as it is a different diameter to the original UP one. This will change the feed rates.