Three years, many hundreds of prints and I still have zero problems with my build plates (three come with the printer). They still adhere as well as the day I bought it. I have two nozzles but both are fine. Just when I get a jam I prefer to swap nozzles so I can get on to printing straight away and...

You are dead right. When there is open circuit on the temp probe it reads as high. This applies to both the bed and extruder probes. Look for damaged wires but it can be anywhere between the extruder and the mainboard. The cables that get flexed all the time during movement are most commonly the one...

Or you can go 10 position http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:528396

The more printer you do, the more temps you will want. Dropping 10C is great for those models you need the support to come away a little better. Gaining 10C is great for those models that are really warp prone and want to crack while printing. I use every single step on my 10 step x 10C temp mod bec...

Not to be a topic Nazi but how does that relate to thin wall printing?

@gordon37: I'm not 100% sure but I believe I once heard the layer setting for the part is only for the bottom (and maybe top) not the walls. I thought they are always 1 - 1.5 mm thick. But I never measured, hopefully you can check for us and measure. I think you are right there. Although layer heig...

Looks impressive. Good detail and definition. However I do wonder what the main purpose of "thin wall" is. With older software typically anything thinner than 0.8mm and always anything thinner than 0.6mm in X and Y would disappear and leave a mess of partially deleted features like shown in the whi...

It's funny because a friend of mine and I have been working on exactly the same idea. I can only assume I was on the same wavelength because I'm originally a West Aussie too :p If there is any part you think needs to be made in metal instead let me know and I'll see if I can get it CNCed for you. I'...

In my case glossy is usually not acceptable for objects so I just wanted to forewarn them joins are a bit obvious due to the different finishes.

clunk clunk clunk! I carnt seem to shift it unless i use the up abs no clunking & works great... All the pla ive have tried including the expensive faberdashery uk pla it is no good even at various temps. I have tried the temp mod cooling mods.. It still clunks and fails awaiting my up pla today se...

First, have a search on the forum but use google instead of the inbuilt search because the forum search will ignore terms that are common or only 3 characters like PLA... kinda useless huh. I say that because it's been discussed a million times. In brief ... the extruder designed is flawed for PLA. ...

Drew's air injection mod is the simplest and most reliable for PLA printing. It only requires a reprint of some extruder plastic parts and a cheap ($10ish) fish tank pump. With PLA always print with the fan door open and all the doors of the Mini enclosure open. These doors are good for ABS but will...

Most commonly this is caused by a broken wire. It will be the wire that leads to the temp probe on the hotend but the break could be anywhere from the mainboard right to the probe. Check all the plugs are secure especially the rainbow cable that connects the extruder. It wouldn't hurt to unplug and ...

There is a reason for this and it relates to how support removal works. The last layer of support is dense so it holds together rather than breaks up leaving bits stuck behind when you peel it off. It also provides a smooth flat surface which is essential for the next layer to work in the way intend...

I am actually still stuck with a manual mod because I often want to modify the temp throughout a print. Something I miss from reprap software slicers.

Once, my UP! Plus also have similar problem with PLA - the filament doesn't melt completely and the stepper motor filament driving gear just cut a groove on the filament. I then used PLA from another supplier, and the problem is solved. I think the melting temperature of PLA from different supplier...

As Drew said, awesome answer ggeezer. The only thing I would add for new users is that warping can be quite different between different supplies of ABS and sometimes even varies a lot between colours. I use the wasted support material, melt it down in acetone as Drew suggested and use this as a bond...

You can install the Up software on any computer as many times as you like. Hook it to the printer once so it knows what print volume/settings it should be working with. Then you can arrange jobs and print preview to get build time estimates. You can save your prepared print as a project to move to t...

Ah yes, another point of stubbornness ... the 3mm hotends/filament

josejuako wrote:http://youtu.be/_F_g_8ziDq4 look other video !. But I prefer Taylor devise is the best , I don't like toys !. Or cheap !.

I'm whit Drew .

Jose

I like good design which is efficient not extravagant.