To abear's point about "•1 raft per print, not 1 raft per part in the print, I have found the UP software overlaps the rafts of parts if they are too close together, which reduces the number of parts I can print at once." I believe that you can eliminate overlapping raft by hitting the "Merge" comma...

I gently rub the outside of the nozzle with some emery cloth before almost every print job. This keeps it clean without removing it.

I had this problem for a while, although it was intermittent. I would wiggle the ribbon cable connector, at the extruder, and it would be OK for awhile. Eventually I got a new ribbon cable and the problem has not re-occurred.

I concur with the loose or bad connection to the temp sensor theory. I had the same problem and wiggling and re-tightening the cable would resolve it for a while. Eventually I replaced the cable and it hasn't been a problem since then (several months ago).

I was looking at the release notes on some of the older versions of the UP software and I came across this note from release Version 1.16: "1. Automatic Unit Conversion. The loaded models are automatically enlarged 25.4 times if the sum of XYZ size is less than 15." At least now you have a way to ch...

You can substantially reduce your re-heat time by putting something over the build plate after removing the print job. I use some cardboard that is cut to size with the corners cut out for the "bulldog" clips. I remember some one else said they are using a silicone type pot holder that is cut to size.

For the low tech solution I just taped together some cardboard boxes. This was going to be temporary but after over a year it is looking permanent. The downside is that Socks has taken to sleeping on top of it in the winter months. It seems to be just the right temperature for a long winter's nap. H...

I had the same problem about 6 months ago. I am not sure what you are referring to with regards to the colors. Maybe you have a different version or different setup. Attached are two photos I took at the time. (This is the Afinia) I hope these photos can help you.

The bed temperature sensor is approximately 3 mm from the bed heater. Both are inserted in individual drilled holes in the block under the bed. I use a piece of cardboard, cut to size, laid on top of the bed to help retain the heat while it warms up. After about 15 minutes I take off the cardboard a...

I used my inline watt meter to measure for you. During bed heat up (I was printing ABS) it was drawing a steady 80 watts. During bed and nozzle heat up it was drawing a steady 126 watts. For an 8 minute bed warm up, immediately followed by a 52 minute print, the total kWh used was .08. Keep in mind ...

I don't know what you mean by "putting a silicon pot stand on the build platform"? Can you explain a bit more? How does it help heat the platform quicker? I assume roller is talking about using a trivet, or an insulating hot pad, that you put on a table to keep a hot dish from ruining the finish on...

You can also try McMaster-Carr. I often use them and they have a nice drop down menu for searching by various parameters:
http://www.mcmaster.com

Octave sells the power supply at: http://www.octave.com/3D-Printers-&-Accessories-Afinia-3D-Printer-Parts/c123457122_123457124/index.html The name plate on mine reads 100 - 240 volt input 50 - 60 Hz, so you should be able to use it in Ireland with a different power cord. You could try sourcing it lo...

Kudos to you Julia for figuring it was the connector and not just the proximity to the heater. The replacement heater board turned up today...yep you guessed it, the 'header' / JST socket, is now GONE, and the wires are now HARDWIRED, exactly the same as I did mine...;) It seems like this is a repai...

I had the same problem about 2 months ago. Mine was worse in that it also melted part of the board that the connector plugs into. They sent me a replacement heater and board but I had to first send the old ones back and then wait a couple of weeks. One good thing though is that the replacement heate...

"2. Is there a way to view the raft and support structure in the UP! software?" You can get to see a 2 dimensional view of the raft and support if you load your model and then run Print Preview under the Maintenance menu. It shows yellow lines between the model and the build plate where the raft and...

It's hard to be sure from the photos but it looks like things are not hot enough. Are you printing with the fan door closed? If not I would definitely try it with the door closed. (Assuming your PLA/ABS setting is correct.)

I agree about using a glue stick directly on glass. I've made many dozens of prints using this method and it has been very successful. I no longer bother with the gecko sheets, kapton on glass, blue tape, etc. The only times I get any lifting are when I have been too lazy to clean and re-apply fresh...

The few times I have had the platform off I have re-installed it with all 3 of the screws screwed all the way in, then I loosen to level. My theory is that the springs will be more compressed, thus giving more tension on the screw threads and keeping the platform more rigid. Also, there is a Thingiv...

I take the glass off, with the print still attached, after just a few minutes. I swap it out for another piece of glass, that is cold, so I can minimize my down time between prints. The glass, with print attached, then cools fairly quickly sitting on my desk. I have no doubt that this accelerated co...