Don't believe there's a fix for this, as each time you send a job to the printer it deducts the amount of filament needed, but if you cancel the print partway through it doesn't "add" it back. The workaround we use is to manually input a very large amount of filament to the spool counter.

PCs, if possible. While I haven't used a Mac for printing on the Up, the software is generally more stable (and has more features) on the PC version.

Not all models of UP! printers support the auto-level and nozzle height detect. The original UP! Plus does not, for example. I believe it was added on the UP! Plus 2? The Afinia does not have this feature, either, at least not the ones we bought at work about a year ago.

Are you printing directly onto the black aluminum plate or onto the perf board? If the latter, you shouldn't need a glue stick. I'd suggest checking the tram of the nozzle relative to the build plate. Get everything pre-heated on the plate and nozzle, then use a couple sheets of copy paper as a feel...

It shouldn't damage it mid-print, but I still put the UP! Plus printers at work on a UPS because it's very annoying having multi-hour prints fail because of a 3-minute power outage. We rarely have outages longer than maybe 10 minutes, so it doesn't take much battery capacity to ride those out. The p...

For things like holes, I find that since the Up! often prints it slightly undersize I don't have to adjust the file, only clean up afterwards with a one-size up drill or reamer. This shouldn't remove enough material to significantly weaken the outside shell; definitely do not try to drill oversize b...

From a practical standpoint, it's better to start pre-heating before sending the print job because the bed takes longer to warm up than the extruder. If you don't pre-heat, the printer will just wait longer before actually starting to print because it needs the bed to reach a certain temp anyway. I ...

The software keeps track of plastic consumed from the roll. When you first set up the printer, you "add" a new roll and list the weight. Each time you print, it calculates the amount of material used and subtracts. Of course, if you print partway and cancel the print, it doesn't account for that, so...

Could be that having raft allows more forgiveness for out-of-tram, too.

Might be temperature related. Have also seen cases where the cooling vents on the side were blocked, leading the printer to (eventually) overheat and cause that error. In one instance, I think we had a box blocking it. In another, the flex cabling inside the printer was blocking the vent. Tucking it...

When the printer is powered off, are you able to raise and lower the build plate across the full range of Z motion? I'm wondering if there's a physical obstruction somewhere. Saw this happen when using an overly long mounting bolt on the side for mounting a tool holder.

Yeah, we ended up using CA for some cases, but some parts have to be kept clean for use with sensitive parts and CA is a no-no because it outgasses. Too bad there isn't a convenient way to solvent weld PLA, AFAIK.

Hmm. I stand corrected then about PLA and acetone. I've not seen it react that way with the PLA used at work, but I admit it's not a very large sample size. Also, we had been trying to find a suitable solvent to use for welding PLA parts and tried the usual suspects, then gave up and asked a chemist...

PLA does not react with acetone. It sounds like the ABS you have is mixed with other materials, possibly regrind or other types of plastic. You can check for the former by a quick bend test of the filament. I've seen some cheap filament that would be flexible in stretches (could almost bend over on ...

Couldn't you use the Scale function in the UP software? You can scale Z independently from the other axes. You can type in whatever is the appropriate scale factor.

The UP software will try to autoscale really small parts up by 25.4 and really big parts down by 25.4.

It does look like there's a chamfered edge on the bottom. As in, the wide vertical slats around the perimeter of the cube appear to have a chamfer. Perhaps it's an optical illusion based on your picture and those features are indeed parallel to the build plate. There's definitely no chamfer in Sket...

It does look like there's a chamfered edge on the bottom. As in, the wide vertical slats around the perimeter of the cube appear to have a chamfer. Perhaps it's an optical illusion based on your picture and those features are indeed parallel to the build plate.

Have seen a shift like that happen when the model is accidentally rotated/moved in the software while it's sending the file to the printer. Once I hit Send, I don't touch any keys until the file is done transmitting for that reason. Another possibility is the stepper skipped a tooth, because it hit ...

Haven't really noticed much difference when it's tied down vs. not tied down (have run it strapped down to a concrete block). As long as the extruder and plate are in phase with each in terms of motion, it won't be a problem.