I can print them in one step.

1. Apply dob of superglue to all the corners of the raft to the perf board.



Part never moves...just scrape it off later easy done.

Dont need to adjust any levels or make sure its any where near perfect alignment.

appears you glued the fins on??

Ive found superglueing parts on with correct layer orientation just improves the model so much!

esp when making clips, i just design my thing with recesses to hold the clips then glue them in.

Re: Printing at lower temps for aftermarket ABS Postby artie11 » Fri Aug 31, 2012 10:58 pm An aftermarket PCB as art103 was talking about would be the way to go... it would allow you to set your temps for the raft differently to the print.. Also avoids the warranty issues as it's a plug in fix.. Yo...

I commonly use my skin to stop the blade, it works great until my white plastic parts have bits of red on them...true story


Also with the quality, its a common thing for the undersides to not look perfect, better support and wind barriers help with that.

Hello, I had this problem where it would go with a mind of its own printing in mid air. My motherboard was changed under warranty. I havnt had the problem return with or without the cable still plugged in. I suggest you call the reseller etc and get them to do a warranty inspection. Take a video of ...

Hmm interesting, if the ABS is melting really low is it worth trying the PLA setting just to see? If the nozzle isnt hot enough to melt the plastic i guess the worst that can happen is the gear will strip the plastic before it can push it through. Ill see how i go here in the Perth (australia) heat ...

There is the option for printing with PLA in the software, and the temperature will drop to 200C for that. Although I have found, without mods, PLA to be problematic. I would suggest you get the ABS printing right first.

There iS?

260/100 are correct, when it begins printing it goes to those 1 etc. In your top photo you say that plastic is white??? If thats the case then the plastic you are using melts WAAAAAAYYY too low and is actually burning. There are a couple of solutions here to run your nozzle at colder temps, there wa...

The platform initial height should be such that most (or at least half) of the very first layer is forced into the holes and only a little film is left on the surface of the perfboard. The first layer should not sit on top of the perfboard; if it does, your initial platform height is too low. You m...

I could easily manufacture a box for it however there was always one thing that held me back... Will the electronics and stepper overheat if its inside a box that will heat up due to the printing process. There is no way to seal the printing area and keep the electronics out as the head needs to mov...

My printer is used primarily for business so I understand the pressures and frustrations. While I've cursed my Up liberally in the past, my problems these days are few and far between. The Petitclerc feed mechanism is a huge part of this - I think that some (most?) of the "nozzle clogs" I was exper...

yep.... Ive had it... machines for sale if anyone wants it.. about 7 hours into an 8 hour print i get up at 3am to see its doing ok and it thinks its finished for some reason... bed is lowered and out as if the part has finished.. because we have to pull the USB out to remove problems with gibberish...

nozzle clogging (after i only soaked it and cleaned it a day ago), then the clogged nozzle lead to extruder shredding the plastic which meant i lost another print mid way. which lead to more nozzle cleaning. plastic stopped extruding, another print gone. and repeat once more. White UP plastic strugg...

Thats not much aye must have been back and forwards or you use a slow speed.

The skull is an 8 hour print but its 100grams. Im printing fast mode on the most hollow selection.

Im printing in white cause i have white to use up. Ill paint it later because all the detail wont be seen in white

tell me about this relationship..im about an inch from selling my machine..a whole day and i only got one 3 hour print done. problem after problem

Thats nuts!! nice work..

Im still way to scared to print anything that takes that long...that woulda been half a roll of plastic haha....


Which plastic did you use?

Im about to print the celtic skull on thingiverse ill post it up when im done

Bit dissapointing if that was the case, Ive only had it apart once to clean it. Those wires going into the heater look so fragile too, should beef them up a bit an allow it to draw high current to get it warmed up faster. maybe next time if it does it again ill jiggle some wires see what happens. Ag...

Hello, Recently my machine keeps telling me part way through a print, nozzle too cold. There is nothing im doing different to before, yet it appears its having a lot of trouble keeping the nozzle up to temp... Cant see what temp its saying that or whether its slowly dropping or just switching off al...

Its not blowing on the nozzle, Even when i turned it off the temp kept going down. I also had a barrier inbetween the V7 wind barrier so there wasnt any win blowing on the nozzle...interesting. I found the quickest way to heat the nozzle up to temp was to turn the normal heat sink fan off for a few ...

Yep, I just wanted to steer clear from modifying the electrics used for normal operation as i have had some problems. INTERESTING NEWS FLASH My heatsink with the fan going actually wont allow the nozzle to get up to temperature before printing. It takes ages and i was watching it then, it got up to ...