Can someone looks at this screenshot from the G-Code tutorial. Does it make sense that the homing commands for the start and stop scripts are different. I ask because using the what's provided in the turtorial makes my printer erratic after a print and I'm forced to manual stuff down the machine aft...

Thank you so much for contributing. I tried 2.0 in my last test and it was much improved. Would coasting be a good idea? It's shocking how incomplete the Tiertime tutorial is, but I'm endlessly thankful that they opened their printers to G Code. Hey are some other numbers I'm running with. Extrusion...

After wanting to shoot myself for Up Studio's lack or tools to control the locations of seams, I've decided to give S3D a go on my Up Box+ After several hours screwing around, I now have it printing fairly well. I intend to create tutorial outlining my experiences. One small issue that I've having a...

Looks like the issue was a loose connection from the platform ribbon cable to the motherboard.

Hi everyone. Two days ago an issue started to develop with my 6 month old Up Box+. The issue is that the printer stops printing in the middle of prints. I only managed to get one successful print out of about 5 attempts. It turns out that the reported error was the the platform was too hot. Today wh...

Mission accomplished. Very easy hack. Simply take out the screws on the back panel to expose the motherboard. Unhook the cable plugged into the molex and replace with a jumper. Problem is solved.

I would like to create a support ticket, but I see it's currently missing from the new website. Starting this week, my Up Box+ periodically (every hour or so) pauses printing thinking that the filament it out, when really there is still a full spool. I have to shake the filament a couple times to ge...

I believe you'll get a solid wall if you set your wall width to 0.8mm (nozzle diameter x 2).

Over a year ago, they said that they would add part numbers when ordering, but they still haven't done this.

I have three spools of partially used filament, and I'm trying to decide which to to use. I add my model and "print preview" to see how much filament it needs. After all the slicing is done, a dialogue pops up and says: "No material detected, please replace it"

Version 1.9.2.1

Still no pictures, and still no answers to basic questions about the part number of this user's roll of filament. I don't think he really wants help.

Yet still no photos. It's working fine over here. I think you should start looking elsewhere for the source of your problem. What is the part number on of your spool of filament? Are you sure you are using the ABS filament and not the ABS plus? The ABS plus is certainly a bitch when it comes to remo...

Can you post some pics? It was definitely easier to remove rafts in the old software, but at the same time, I feel like the finish of the parts where the rafts attaches looks better. It takes just a second with a scrapper to remove any stuck pieces.

Rob

After a couple of days of research, I've come up with the ultimate solution to controlling the seams on enclosure with 2mm walls. The trick is to design your enclosures as two separate 1mm enclosures that are extremely close together, but not touching (I used a 0.01 gap) Any internal support structu...

hmm someone have removed my comment. I only print ABS and PETG. I have some lowcost printer with S3D for backup, and one UP+ and one Zortrax M200. UP+ have served me nice for about 4 years, it is ok but only for smaller things. At for now i prefer my Zortrax M200. -Don't remove my post this time......

Success! I did a few alterations to my part and it printer perfectly! I changed the wall thickness from 1.5mm to 1mm. If you go with 1.5, Up printers will just leave a 0.5mm gap between two 0.5mm walls. In fact, the 1mm wall feels a lot stronger than a 1.5mm wall. Secondly, I add a breakoff support ...

More seam issues with another part. Again, I need to find a way to control where the seams are appearing. Here are pics of the top (visible) side of the enclosure, and the bottom (usually hidden) side of the enclosure. The top side looks nasty, and the bottom is pretty much pristine. I need the oppo...

The "easy peel" setting take care of the issue. Really it should be enabled by default.

I've made some progress by carefully choosing the layout of my parts. I used the assumption that the slicer would try to minimise the travel distance between the various parts. So by keeping the back edges of the enclosures adjacent to each other, all the seams appearing exactly where I want them. I...

Me too! Testing with ”easy peel" setting now.